How to make this Dart Handle?

Skip the tubular UCA's for a street car, just use the Moog offset bushings to get your alignment to modern specs.

Get the adjustable strut rods, especially if you go with poly LCA bushings. New LCA bushings and strut rod bushings are not the same size as the originals, and you'll need the adjustable strut rods to get the suspension geometry right.

Boxing the LCA's isn't necessary, but I do it because it IS an improvement and its cheap if you can weld. Also, be sure to true up the LCA's when you add the plate, this takes a TON of slop out of them. Courtesy Jim Lusk

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nwes-SP8u4w&feature=share&list=FLZE4z1bplLPyJTJck2AR1ag"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nwes-SP8u4w&feature=share&list=FLZE4z1bplLPyJTJck2AR1ag[/ame]

11/16's tie rod ends and adjuster are overkill, but I DO replace the adjusters with tubular ones. You can buy these generic if you get the right length. The 9/16's end isn't the problem, its the flex in the open adjuster.

And absolutely add frame connectors, on everything. Daily, street, strip, road race, whatever. All of these cars should have frame connectors if they do anything other than sit in a museum.

I'd skip the B body rear on a Dart, they're a better fit for the Dusters/Demons. Not that it can't be done, but the backspacing is a bit more of an issue.

1" torsion bars and XHD's are good, Bilsteins for great shocks, Fox's for even better, but both are overkill for a driver. I've had KYB's on my 1.12" torsion bar equipped Challenger for 40k miles. They're stiff, but manageable.

On a Dart I'd do 245/45/17's on all 4 corners for an easier fit, although you can do 255's all around with the right backspace, even with stock spring locations.