my first engine rebuild (318) advises

well those pistons look like good choice.

if my orginal pistons are not way down in hole, those pistons would give cc about 9,0:1

i know i need to balance rotating assembly, but i will brobably do that anyway, i hear that stock pistons/rods can have big weight difirences.

if i would use those pistons, is that rod narrowing thing something that i can do in garage or do i need to go to the machinist? machining is quite expensive here.

i am planning to use kit from summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-csmhp810-300/overview/make/plymouth
of course i have to measure my engine before buying to get correct set.
i will customize that kit and get what need on my rebuild.
i am planing to swap all gaskets, bearings plus oil, water, fuel pump and timing gear.

heads are still mystery to me, haven't opened them or done compression test, have to that someday.
but if they need valve job, those bigger valves would be nice.
i would do cylinder port job my self, something small, brobably just gasket mach.

I have friend who owns tractor repair shop, so i can do most of machining there, pressing cylinders to rods, honing.

Balancing and boring cant do, because its cheaper to put new cylinder pipes than overbore them on tractors.

i have about 2 months to figure my combination and fidlle around it. factory service manual and this book have been good information when planning this build
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Mopar-Design/dp/1932494545"]How to Rebuild the Small-Block Mopar (S-A Design): Bill Burt: 9781932494549: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

BUT FABO is even better source of information :)