SRT8CUDA Build

RealWing · Apr 18, 2013

I've now got all the fittings and hoses to run from the fuel tank to the engine. Bought Russell parts, but there are many other vendors. If I was doing it again, I would run hose from rear to front instead of using part of a 3/8" S/S line. The swage fittings from 3/8" tube to -6AN are very expensive. It is relatively easy to buy the hose and cut and add fittings on each end. The hoses I used are all teflon lined so I dont have any deterioration due to different fuels.
These are the parts I used starting from the fuel tank.
90 deg 1/4" NPT to -6AN male Russell 614106
12" -6AN female to -6AN female Hose Russell 658490
12" -6AN female to -6AN female Hose Russell 658490
3/8" EFI female to -6AN male Russell 640850
5/16" EFI female to -6AN male Russell 640860
WIX fuel filter/regulator Amazon 33737
3/8" EFI male to -6AN male Russell 640940
3/8" S/S tube to -6AN male fittings Pure Choice Motorsports 5770
3/8" S/S fuel line Fine Lines
3/8" S/S tube to -6AN male fittings Pure Choice Motorsports 5770
24" -6AN female to -6AN female Hose Russell 658510
-6AN male to -6AN male coupler Russell 660350
Fuel line and gauge - passenger side Street & Performance

Stew4706 · Apr 18, 2013

Looks awesome!

loganscuda · May 15, 2013

You used your original heater box what are you using for the rest of your A/C. What controls. Mine was an A/C car but have nothing on the interior but heater box and heater switches.

RealWing · May 15, 2013

loganscuda said:
You used your original heater box what are you using for the rest of your A/C. What controls. Mine was an A/C car but have nothing on the interior but heater box and heater switches.

I'm using all the stock interior AC parts. Original heater and AC evaporator box. Using original vacuum controls. Using original evaporator freeze up protection thermoswitch.
Will get a new drier and new expansion valve and new hoses and hard lines. I'm going to install a hi/lo pressure switch and wire in series with the AC compressor clutch to protect compressor.
Using a new Sanden rotary compressor and new larger condensor. If you have more questions - let me know

RealWing · May 15, 2013

The milodon dipstick was too long as supplied by ~3/4". I pulled it apart, cut off the S/S covered plastic tube and reassembled..
First photo shows the ferrule pulled back. Then the hose was pulled off (was well attached!!) the barbed fitting, then cut off and reassembled.

Joe Dokes · May 15, 2013

Those welds on your gas tank look very good. Tig or Mig?

Great job. Keep the car pr0n coming.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

V-100 · May 15, 2013

I'm with Joe-"Keep the '****,' coming!"

RealWing · Jun 6, 2013

Finally finished laying down Eastwood Sound Deadener on the body to cut down on some of the noise, vibration and hopefully any exhaust drone. Took far longer than I thought!!!

toplscuda · Jun 6, 2013

Looks great. How much did it take to do it?

RealWing · Jun 6, 2013

toplscuda said:
Looks great. How much did it take to do it?

Took about 3 boxes. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermocoustic-material.html

DA4AD · Jun 27, 2013

Way cool build!
Great thread, not only are you building a masterpiece but you are buying all the right parts, installing, trouble shooting, taking time to take pictures, down load them and post pictures, updates and part numbers.
My hats off to you! Where do you find the time.

Quick question as I am contemplating a 5.7 Hemi swap in my 68 Dart.
Will the older Mopar bell housings fit the 5.7 & 6.1?
Cheers and keep up the great work!

RealWing · Jun 28, 2013

DA4AD said:
Way cool build!
Great thread, not only are you building a masterpiece but you are buying all the right parts, installing, trouble shooting, taking time to take pictures, down load them and post pictures, updates and part numbers.
My hats off to you! Where do you find the time.

Quick question as I am contemplating a 5.7 Hemi swap in my 68 Dart.
Will the older Mopar bell housings fit the 5.7 & 6.1?
Cheers and keep up the great work!

DA4AD- thanks for the feedback. I'm semi-retired, which helps a lot with time for this project.
Yes, the older SB bellhousings will bolt right up, which is pretty amazing after 40+ years!
Jim

RealWing · Jul 2, 2013

Just heard from Jamie Passon that I'm #4 on the production list for this new tranny! :blob:
He is waiting for some reverse interlock parts to come back from heat treating and then he will (finally) be ready to start production.
It has been an incredible ordeal for him to get this tranny produced.

RealWing · Jul 2, 2013

Picked up some "shiny bits" today!!
26" aluminum radiator from Wizard Cooling with 2 12" Maradyne fans (1565 cfm) and integrated shroud and expansion tank. Very well made with excellent welding.
Set of American Muscle 17"x8" Bullitt style rims (anthracite)

DA4AD · Jul 3, 2013

Good luck with the passon.
Let us know how it works out!

mopardude318 · Jul 3, 2013

been a ong time since i seen this thread. sut now decided to go check it out again. VERY VERY nice work!

Here's what I did, not my pics, but exactly the same.

67BarracudaUSAF · Jul 22, 2013

This thread is awesome. So much info on here and what an incredible build. Would love to do a 3rd Gen swap in my 67 but I imagine thats a few years down the road.

RealWing · Aug 1, 2013

I got a complete 8-3/4" rear axle assembly from Moser with some "modifications". The outboard bearings are Ford tapered roller bearings that can be set up with very small axial play for the rear disk brakes (I refuse to use "Green" ball bearings)
First problem was that the Wilwood brake calipers were not centered over the disk. A quick call to Bill Reilly and he contatced Wilwood and Moser ( I bought everything through him) and it turns out I have the wrong Wilwood spacers.
A week or 2 later I had the "correct" spacers - but guess what - they also didnt center the calipers either!!!
They were closer but I had to have them machined thinner.
The original ones were ~0.625 and these new ones are ~0.485 (~0.140 thinner) I had to machine another 0.060" off them to get the calipers centered correctly.

RealWing · Aug 1, 2013

When I was installing the brake rotors, I found a lot of runout on the rotors (~0.030" on one and about 0.015" on the other)
After eliminating the rotors, I found that the axle face was not true!!
Another call to Bill Reilly, who contacted Moser and I got an immediate callback from Foz at Moser.
He said they try to maintain the face runout to 0.008" but will allow up to 0.020" total. I said that that would result in a max runout of 0.040" on a 12" rotor, but he thought that would not be a problem!!
After he explained how they were machined, I went back to my machinist and we measured 0.018" and 0.011" runout.
Normal tolerances on todays vehicles are typically <0.002" max runout on a rear disk rotor.
Had my machinist press out the bolts, set up the axles in a lathe and remacine the face. We easily achieved <0.001" runout.
We can't figure out how the runout could be so great. Modern machine shops should easily be able to get this face <0.001" runout. maybe the flange is distorted when Moser presses in the bolts?????

Mumble, mumble, mumble!!!

toplscuda · Aug 3, 2013

The amount of detail you are going through on this is impressive. I wish I had the attention span to do it to mine

RealWing · Aug 4, 2013

toplscuda said:
The amount of detail you are going through on this is impressive. I wish I had the attention span to do it to mine

I deliberately bought parts that should be a simple bolt-in!! Not happening!
Disappointing but I also like mechanical/engineering challenges.
I've also learned over many years to double check nearly everything.
Jim

4spdragtop · Aug 6, 2013

Remarkable, I agree with Toplscuda! Cant wait for the next set of pics/details.

72BBSwinger · Aug 6, 2013

My last Moser's had thread in studs, I ran drums and didnt care, but your point of the distortion during pressing studs in makes sense.

fstfish66 · Aug 6, 2013

RealWing said:
I looked at the possibility of going with LED lights in tail and front turn signals, but most turn out to have less light output that the stock 1157's. For the tail lights, I ended up with 3496 bulbs. These are Krypton gas filled and light output is 43/3 candlepower vs 32/3 for the stock 1157's. Like all parts these days, some are made offshore with variable quality. I ended up getting mine from Honda (yes - I know - Honda parts in a Mopar!!). P/N 34906-SL0-A01 for list price of $6.92 Can.
I went with 2357NA amber bulbs for the front turn signals which are a bit brighter.

unless it was a cheap LED there no way its not brighter then a 1157 type bulb,,,,but the big thing to consider useing those BRIGHTER bulbs is HEAT they make HEAT and warp and melt lenses,,,find a good set of LED,S no heat,,less voltage drawl,,,save your lenses

RealWing · Aug 6, 2013

fstfish66 said:
unless it was a cheap LED there no way its not brighter then a 1157 type bulb,,,,but the big thing to consider useing those BRIGHTER bulbs is HEAT they make HEAT and warp and melt lenses,,,find a good set of LED,S no heat,,less voltage drawl,,,save your lenses

I'm aware of the heat issue with higher wattage incadescent bulbs. For tail lights I didnt have any concern because they are on high output for a very short time. Their low power filament was same wattage as stock bulbs.

I checked several led suppliers, but it is very hard to find good quality leds. Lots of cheap leds out there.

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