Aluminum Fuel Tank Project / EFI Fuel Cooling
To get a feel for whether the heat comes from the pump or the exhaust & hot engine bay, calculate the electrical power into the pump: P = I x dV. Ex. if it is drawing 10 A, P = (10 A) * (12 V) = 120 W. That energy is going into the fuel. I expect your pump draws ~2 A steady-state. It is a bit hard to measure such currents. Easiest is a clamp-on DC current probe. I just bought some for work at $440 ea. For home, I bought an earlier F.W. Bell one for $15 on ebay. See why I like ebay?
Bill,
I have emailed Aeromotive tech support asking what the max amp draw for the pump is. Still no reply. I guess I will try to call them on Monday.
You would think they would publish that info, but I have been unable to find it.
I think some of my problems are related to the alternator/charging circuit as well.
My battery was on its way out and not taking/holding a charge to well. This could also cause the pump to run warmer then normal, considering that when going down the road there are 2 11" spal electric fans and a 11" derale fan on the trans cooler.
I have a 140 amp power master alternator. I had it tested at a good shop locally and it is working the way it should.
I have replaced the old battery with a Optima Yellow Top.
With the fuel system torn apart I have not had a chance to see how it works.
I woke up from a dead sleep last night and realized that the only ground on the alternator is thru the top mounting bolt and the tension turn buckle.
This could be a high resistant ground cause low output to the battery.
The battery is mounted in the trunk with fine strand 1/0 welding cable to it.
I have stranded 6 gauge copper from the battery to a stud on the engine just below the alternator.
I am going to run a heavy braided or another 6 gauge jumper from the alternator case to that stud.
Herb