Aluminum Fuel Tank Project / EFI Fuel Cooling
Can you detail the heavy wiring again? This does not make sense to me.
Where is the battery grounded, IE did you run 1/0 from battery neg to the engine, or is the battery grounded to the body in the trunk?
It obviously "has been working" otherwise it would not crank well That is, the alternator ground could not be a problem and the starter still work well.
The alternator is a one wire.
The battery is in the rear passenger side of the trunk.
The 1/0 goes from the Bat terminal of the alternator to the Positive of the battery.
It is a little on the large side. Bigger is Better, right...
It is better to have the feed wire too large and not too small.
It is what I had on hand at the time I built the car.
The starter has it's own 1/0 supply line to the starter relay.
The Negative side of the battery goes to a 3/8"x2"x4" copper buss bar next to the battery.
This buss bar feeds two stranded and insulated 6 gauge cooper wires.
One of the 6 gauge feeds goes to another copper buss bar in the passenger side kick panel. All of the grounds from the dash goto this buss. Each under it's own machine screw.
The other 6 gauge wire goes to a 3/8" stud mounted in one of the fuel pump block off plate holes for the engine block ground.
This is where I plan on running the ground strap from the alternator. It can't hurt.
The fuel pump is wired with 10 gauge stranded wire, both the + and -.
The pump ground goes to the buss next to the battery.
ALL of the grounds in the car go to one of the two copper buss bars, NOT to the body.
This was done to help eliminate any "noise" interference to the F.A.S.T. XFI.
The system "was" working ok until I added the load of the two spal fans.
Until I got the cooling system working, I really could not drive the car to iron out other possible problems)
The battery tested marginal on my load tester and also at the parts store.
It was almost 5 years old.
Herb
