Why is it so hard to get good advice !!???

Thanks, Moper.
This experience has been fraught with all sorts of hurdles. The crank hub I've been using doesn't stay in position when going from a clockwise rotation to a CCW direction. It slips about 2 degrees. The hub has 3 slots in it, presumably to fit 3 different engines? Anyhow, I'm using the narrowest slot but it still has a bit of a loose fit on the Woodruff key. I've tightened the allen set screw to the point where I am worried I'll snap the Allen wrench but the hub still backs off about 2 degrees when I reverse my rotation. I cant just say... "okay, I'm off by 2 degrees so I'll just deduct that number..." THAT is a half assed way of dealing with it. The allen screw has a flat end so it hasn't damaged the crank snout. It may have slipped partly because for most of the process, I was cranking the engine with the spark plugs in and the rocker arms in place. That made the engine very hard to turn over. Because of this, I've bent 2 piston stops. The engine had such resistance while turning, I couldn't feel it when the piston hit the stop. Adding to that, the piston stop is a 3/8 rod threaded into a 14 mm insert. It is also in on an angle. Its not hard to bend a thin rod on an angle when rotating the engine with a torque wrench.
See what I mean? Obstacle after hurdle after misstep!
The 110 centerline told me that the cam was 4 degrees retarded, so I pulled the crank sprocket and moved it to the 4 degree advanced spot. With the hub back on and still slipping, I pulled it and decided to attach the degree wheel with the crank dampner bolt. I degreed it and came up with a 103 number. Huh? How could the 4 degree ADV position make a 7 degree difference? I just HAD to verify TDC to make sure I wasn't starting from a bogus number. Well, I bent the piston stop again, so I walked away pissed off.
I ordered a solid brass piston stop from Summit racing. Its from Crane cams and has a hole in the middle to allow compression to escape. This one is sturdy and isn't likely to bend.
I checked piston to valve clearance at 15 degrees before TDC, at TDC and 15 degrees after TDC and was surprised to find I had over .200 of clearance! I read somewhere that some cam companies call for a .120 minimum.
Those Lunati lifters with the barbell design worried me. I called Lunati directly and talked with their tech guy. He said that in some cases, the open area could drop below the lifter boss or rise above it, causing a loss of oil pressure. This was dependant on the amount of core shift in the block. I wasn't interested in risking anything like that, so I returned them to the Summit store and bought a set of the Howards Direct oiling lifters. Same principal, but with a conventional oil band.
I had to pull away to work on other things, but I hope to return to the car this weekend.