replacement intake studs

zac_F71 said

Just read ARP chromoly bolts are heat treated.. problem solved.. (for me at least haha)

Plus these only need 15ft/lbs max and these ARP bolts use a 3/8" hex head so the bottoms will be easier to get to then the 1/2" nut of the norm.

you have to remember the flanges are 1/2" thick, then you have to account for the spanner washers which are at least 1/4" thick and the threads in the head are at least 5/8" 3/4" deep

Summit part numbers- (washers are also included and I plan on using them)

ARP-154-2001 -SBF 2" under head length intake bolts (12ct you need 11)
ARP-651-1250 -1.25" under head length bolts set of 5 you need 2 for exh. mani. ends

these 2 sets are $37.. you won't get individual ARP bolts cheaper than this..

Click to expand...

you'll kill your self using bolts but do what ever you want...

and the studs i told you about are double ended (fine/course). the problem you'll run into is that due to the curve of the header tubes you wont be able to get the flanges to sit flat because the studs are to long, they will hit the tubes, second is depending on the shape of the rear tube the stud will be so long you can get the rear header off because it hits the master cylinder before clearing the stud.

i dont remember exactly how long my studs are but they were as long as i could go with 3/8" flanges, you are effectively made the usable space shorter so your will have to be more exact.

i would do a mock up assuming you have the headers/intake built and fitted and see how much room you have, then use a cheap stud and see if you can actually R&R the assembly,pieces...