TTI headers installed, pictures anybody?

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gregsdart

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I am considering putting TTI A body headers on my 5.7 Hemi/65 Dart project. I need some pictures of installed headers on a later A body if possible, to see just where the problems may come up. This car is getting an Alterkation custom front suspension, and I can modify the rear crossmember area as needed. I suspect that may be a big part of why they aren't listed for the early As. If there is a problem with the frame rails, I can possibly fix that, or move the steering shaft as I am putting in a whole new column. Thanks, Greg
 
It's a tight fit for a 1970 duster. I'm having clearance issues with the headers and the drivers side torsion bar. I can get more specific ones if you need...
 

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Directly contact Bill Reilly at RMS for insight into the installation. He mocked up a 5.7L Hemi in 2006 on an early A-Body, and he should be able to tell you if TTI Headers will work in an Early A.


Here is a build thread for probably one of the nicest early A-Bodies I've ever seen. He used a 5.7L Hemi with Jeep exhaust manifolds. The Jeep manifolds are a little more restrictive than the long tube TTI headers, but are several hundred dollars cheaper. Tin Cup also used an Alter-K-Tion.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=63294

Best of Luck with your project.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

PS: pack a lunch for the above thread, it is 51 pages long. Though well worth the read.
 
It's a tight fit for a 1970 duster. I'm having clearance issues with the headers and the drivers side torsion bar. I can get more specific ones if you need...
Jason;
I have a 1970 Duster drag car that I am about to put a 5.7 in.
Were you able to able to put it in with trans and headers attached, or did they have to go in separately?
Also, power steering or manual?
Thanks
 
Jason;
I have a 1970 Duster drag car that I am about to put a 5.7 in.
Were you able to able to put it in with trans and headers attached, or did they have to go in separately?
Also, power steering or manual?
Thanks

I dropped in the 5.7 with tranny attached. Headers detached. I laid the headers down in there and drop the motor down in there close and attached the headers. A-bodies have a smaller engine compartment, power steering is a issue, the power steering box is just way too big. So it's manual only. There's a couple aftermarket ways around it. 1. Bill Reilly's RMS kit, 2. Borgenson power steering box, almost half the size of the stock manual box. About $700 though.
 

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Jason;
I have a 1970 Duster drag car that I am about to put a 5.7 in.
Were you able to able to put it in with trans and headers attached, or did they have to go in separately?
Also, power steering or manual?
Thanks

Borgenson power steering box
 

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Yep! Went in no problem! Had some probls with the sandwich mounts them self, and at the moment, I have the driver side header hitting the torsion bar....
Great pictures and info Jason! I'm going to try some stock 5.7 exhaust manifolds and see if they will fit in there to break in the cam. I'm afraid the 1st run may be too hot and cook the coating on the headers. Currently looking for some kind of temporary flex pipe I can jury rig onto those manifolds for a startup run.
I have a stock manual steering box and torsion bars. Looks like fun times ahead!
 
on my demon the driver side header sat right on the torsion bar with adjustment there was just enough room to slide a buisness card between the to. So i opted out of the torsion bars and bought coilovers. still not in yet but with the torsion bars gone theres nothing but space.

Aj
 
on my demon the driver side header sat right on the torsion bar with adjustment there was just enough room to slide a buisness card between the to. So i opted out of the torsion bars and bought coilovers. still not in yet but with the torsion bars gone theres nothing but space.
Aj
Aj, Did you have to change out the K member to switch to coil overs?
 
on my demon the driver side header sat right on the torsion bar with adjustment there was just enough room to slide a buisness card between the to. So i opted out of the torsion bars and bought coilovers. still not in yet but with the torsion bars gone theres nothing but space.

Aj
Hey AJ408

I've adjusted and keep getting the same amount of space in between... None. Any tips?
I've though about those coil overs, but that's a lot of stress on the front clip isn't it? I've heard it's not safe to bolt them straight up, do any reinforcements?
 
Great pictures and info Jason! I'm going to try some stock 5.7 exhaust manifolds and see if they will fit in there to break in the cam. I'm afraid the 1st run may be too hot and cook the coating on the headers. Currently looking for some kind of temporary flex pipe I can jury rig onto those manifolds for a startup run.
I have a stock manual steering box and torsion bars. Looks like fun times ahead!

Break-in a roller cam?
 
If you're going RMS Alterkation, then there should be ZERO clearance problems. Many of people have done it with the RMS front end. Best one hands down.
 
Hydraulic cam. I've been told to run the motor at 2500 RPM for 30 minutes to break in the cam.

All (stock'ish) 3rd gen Hemi-cams are hydraulic, afaik.
I'm not aware you can get flattappet cams for 3rd gen Hemi's, but if so, then yes break them in as stated.

With a rollercam, either hydraulic or solid, you don't have to break in the cam.
 
All (stock'ish) 3rd gen Hemi-cams are hydraulic, afaik.
I'm not aware you can get flattappet cams for 3rd gen Hemi's, but if so, then yes break them in as stated.

With a rollercam, either hydraulic or solid, you don't have to break in the cam.
Not a roller cam.
 
Aj, Did you have to change out the K member to switch to coil overs?

I kept the stock k member. I bought the coilovers setup from RMS. RMS upper control arms, Dillinger lower control arms, and Hemi Denny upper shock tower support. That will take care of the issues of the weight going on the shock towers.

The RMS Alterkation is a very nice setup and I would love to put one in my car but its just not in my budget. I'm also switching to rack and.pinion. I bought a second factory k member and in the process of trying to mount the rack. It's been done a few times with the stock k.

Aj
 
One other suggestion is to shim the mounts. I did that first but didn't like the idea.

Aj
 
My 408 install. The TTi's hit a casting hump on the motor while still on the ground. I ground that off. They needed to be bent a little on a press to clear the starter even though they asked what starter I was using. Other than that, they fit tight, look good and sound good. It's been a year and a half and I am still very happy with them. They are definitely a tight fit in my Dart, but worth it. Did I mention you can access the spark plugs without pulling the headers?

View attachment Exhaust from headers back.jpg

View attachment exhaust, subframe and driveshaft.jpg

View attachment Header clearance left side 1.jpg

View attachment Header clearance left side.jpg

View attachment Header clearance right side.jpg

View attachment Header fitment.jpg

View attachment Header on uninstalled motor.jpg

View attachment Headers clearing right side.jpg
 
I kept the stock k member. I bought the coilovers setup from RMS. RMS upper control arms, Dillinger lower control arms, and Hemi Denny upper shock tower support. That will take care of the issues of the weight going on the shock towers.

The RMS Alterkation is a very nice setup and I would love to put one in my car but its just not in my budget. I'm also switching to rack and.pinion. I bought a second factory k member and in the process of trying to mount the rack. It's been done a few times with the stock k.

Aj

I'd be curious to see the finish setup when your done finding a way to get the rack and pinion to work. I've seen one other do it, and he had the lower ball joints pointing forward, a too much bump steer for me.
 
I'd be curious to see the finish setup when your done finding a way to get the rack and pinion to work. I've seen one other do it, and he had the lower ball joints pointing forward, a too much bump steer for me.

I have been talking with another member here about the rack setup and decided to go that route. The tube k setup would brake the bank and put me "light years" from getting the car on the road. The member I have been talking with has put quite a few street miles on his car and says he has 0 bump steer. So I'm following his setup other than running the 3G hemi. I should have the k done in the next few weeks and I will attempt to post pictures of the setup.

Aj
 
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