No charging
You still using the 69/ earlier (single field connection) setup?
You have IGN1 and IGN2 from the key.
IGN2 is the ballast bypass, is hot only in start, and goes to the coil+ side of the ballast (brown)
IGN1 is what you need here. It is hot in run, comes from the key, and goes to the "switch" side of the ballast, AND branches off and feeds the IGN terminal of the regulator
1--The regulator MUST be grounded.
2--For a very quick check, unhook the field wire at the alternator, and jumper a clip lead from the alternator field terminal to a battery connection.
Start the engine, bring up RPM and see if it charges.
If not, verify (with a meter) that you are for certain getting battery to the field. You can also hook/ unhook your clip lead, and should see a small spark from the field
3--If you've done the above, and no charge, check voltage with engine running "fast idle" at the battery. If it's low, below 14, check voltage at the alternator stud
If this voltage is low, you indeed have alternator problems
If this voltage is quite high, you have a charging wire problem, between the alternator, bulkhead connector, ammeter, and back to the battery.
4--If the above checks DO result in a charge, you either have a bad regulator or a problem in the field wiring. Hook the alternator field wire back up, unhook the regulator, and jumper the two regulator wires together.
Repeat, run engine see if there's a charge. If not with key on, check for battery voltage at the alternator field. If not, check where you jumpered the regulator wires together. If you have voltage there, you have a break in the green wire. If no voltage at the regulator IGN wire, then you have a problem where IGN1 branches off out of the bulkhead and splits from the ballast and to the regulator.
5--If the above tests DO cause the alternator to charge, and you are certain the regulator was grounded. replace the regulator.
If you buy a new alternator, and would rather have one that "works better" rather than "restore correct" ask for a mid 70's and make sure you get a "squareback." Ground one field, and wire up as your old one
The one below on the left is the superior later squareback
You still using the 69/ earlier (single field connection) setup?
You have IGN1 and IGN2 from the key.
IGN2 is the ballast bypass, is hot only in start, and goes to the coil+ side of the ballast (brown)
IGN1 is what you need here. It is hot in run, comes from the key, and goes to the "switch" side of the ballast, AND branches off and feeds the IGN terminal of the regulator
1--The regulator MUST be grounded.
2--For a very quick check, unhook the field wire at the alternator, and jumper a clip lead from the alternator field terminal to a battery connection.
Start the engine, bring up RPM and see if it charges.
If not, verify (with a meter) that you are for certain getting battery to the field. You can also hook/ unhook your clip lead, and should see a small spark from the field
3--If you've done the above, and no charge, check voltage with engine running "fast idle" at the battery. If it's low, below 14, check voltage at the alternator stud
If this voltage is low, you indeed have alternator problems
If this voltage is quite high, you have a charging wire problem, between the alternator, bulkhead connector, ammeter, and back to the battery.
4--If the above checks DO result in a charge, you either have a bad regulator or a problem in the field wiring. Hook the alternator field wire back up, unhook the regulator, and jumper the two regulator wires together.
Repeat, run engine see if there's a charge. If not with key on, check for battery voltage at the alternator field. If not, check where you jumpered the regulator wires together. If you have voltage there, you have a break in the green wire. If no voltage at the regulator IGN wire, then you have a problem where IGN1 branches off out of the bulkhead and splits from the ballast and to the regulator.
5--If the above tests DO cause the alternator to charge, and you are certain the regulator was grounded. replace the regulator.
If you buy a new alternator, and would rather have one that "works better" rather than "restore correct" ask for a mid 70's and make sure you get a "squareback." Ground one field, and wire up as your old one
The one below on the left is the superior later squareback
