The Great Pumpkin - '71 Duster
So I got a big job done which was re-doing the transmission cooler lines and installing a new B&M Supercooler. I was kind of dreading doing the lines without a lift. It wasn't that bad actually and went a little bit better than I expected it would. I guess I might be getting a little bit better at plumbing.
I'm not sure if the lines that were on there originally were OE or not. They were 5/16" steel with brass fittings. They did not run through the radiator but went to a small trans cooler that was lashed to the the rad. core with those cheesy zip ties. The hard lines were connected to the cooler with rubber hoses and clamps that went under the radiator support and up to the cooler. The rubber hoses were leaking - enough to usually see a small red puddle under the front of the car the day after I drove it. Time for a change.
I like AN type fittings so I went with 3/8" aluminum tubing and -6 AN fittings. The cooler taps on the case are 1/8" NPT so I needed 1/8NPT to -6 adapter fittings to connect to the hard line tube nuts. I wanted the lines to go through the radiator support so I used 90 degree bulkhead fittings. The cooler was plumbed with hard line to the bulkheads and I used push lock hose to connect the bulkhead fittings to the hard lines.
I ran the lines up the left side frame rail like they were initially. I had to route them around the exhaust and over the brake line block. I used heat shield/tape where the lines come close to the header tube. I got some fancy line clamps to keep them neat. Near the front of the hard lines I used a dual line clamp I had in my bolt box from work. I took many cooler lines out when I was wrenching and I always seemed to end up with one or two of these. They work good and are tough. I tapped it for a 5/16" bolt and secured to the front frame.
When I measured the tubing to see how much I would need, I miscalculated and ended up short. I decided that I could use some push lock hose for an easy disconnect should I need it. I think it also allows a little flex. The one draw back to this style of plumbing is all the fittings involved. On the trans cooler lines alone I have two pipe to AN adapters, 8 sets of tube nuts and sleeves, 4 hose ends, two bulkhead fittings and two -6 couplers. That's like $200 in fittings. Makes me a little queasy to think about but it looks bitchin'. :D
I also took a few pics detailing a the flaring process when using 37 degree AN type fittings. Its a single flare but requires a specific tool to do the job. I have a Ridgid 37 degree flaring tool that makes perfect flares every time. To cut the tube, I use a Blue Point tubing cutter. Some guys say not to use tubing cutters because it work hardens the material but it works well for me. I keep the roller blade lubed which helps. I use a few different benders to make the tubing - an Imperial Eastman 3/8" lever bender and a universal one I got from Sears. They both have their uses and switch back and forth when needed.
OK, on to the pics.
Here's a piece of tubing cut and ready to flare.
This is the B.P. tubing cutter.
Here's the Ridgid flaring tool. Aluminum tubing is very soft so the tool can be used like this but sometimes I stick it in a vice which makes it a little easier.
Perfect flare every time.
Here's the new ones made up next to the old ones for comparison.
Detail of the heat shielding stuff.
Lines installed in the car. Couldn't get pics of where the lines attach to the case, there's not enough room and poor sight lines.
Here's the hard lines from the cooler to the bulkhead and the push lock hose to the hard lines. This custom stuff sure can take up a lot of time and money but I'm happy with how it turned out.
More to come.
So I got a big job done which was re-doing the transmission cooler lines and installing a new B&M Supercooler. I was kind of dreading doing the lines without a lift. It wasn't that bad actually and went a little bit better than I expected it would. I guess I might be getting a little bit better at plumbing.
I'm not sure if the lines that were on there originally were OE or not. They were 5/16" steel with brass fittings. They did not run through the radiator but went to a small trans cooler that was lashed to the the rad. core with those cheesy zip ties. The hard lines were connected to the cooler with rubber hoses and clamps that went under the radiator support and up to the cooler. The rubber hoses were leaking - enough to usually see a small red puddle under the front of the car the day after I drove it. Time for a change.
I like AN type fittings so I went with 3/8" aluminum tubing and -6 AN fittings. The cooler taps on the case are 1/8" NPT so I needed 1/8NPT to -6 adapter fittings to connect to the hard line tube nuts. I wanted the lines to go through the radiator support so I used 90 degree bulkhead fittings. The cooler was plumbed with hard line to the bulkheads and I used push lock hose to connect the bulkhead fittings to the hard lines.
I ran the lines up the left side frame rail like they were initially. I had to route them around the exhaust and over the brake line block. I used heat shield/tape where the lines come close to the header tube. I got some fancy line clamps to keep them neat. Near the front of the hard lines I used a dual line clamp I had in my bolt box from work. I took many cooler lines out when I was wrenching and I always seemed to end up with one or two of these. They work good and are tough. I tapped it for a 5/16" bolt and secured to the front frame.
When I measured the tubing to see how much I would need, I miscalculated and ended up short. I decided that I could use some push lock hose for an easy disconnect should I need it. I think it also allows a little flex. The one draw back to this style of plumbing is all the fittings involved. On the trans cooler lines alone I have two pipe to AN adapters, 8 sets of tube nuts and sleeves, 4 hose ends, two bulkhead fittings and two -6 couplers. That's like $200 in fittings. Makes me a little queasy to think about but it looks bitchin'. :D
I also took a few pics detailing a the flaring process when using 37 degree AN type fittings. Its a single flare but requires a specific tool to do the job. I have a Ridgid 37 degree flaring tool that makes perfect flares every time. To cut the tube, I use a Blue Point tubing cutter. Some guys say not to use tubing cutters because it work hardens the material but it works well for me. I keep the roller blade lubed which helps. I use a few different benders to make the tubing - an Imperial Eastman 3/8" lever bender and a universal one I got from Sears. They both have their uses and switch back and forth when needed.
OK, on to the pics.
Here's a piece of tubing cut and ready to flare.
This is the B.P. tubing cutter.
Here's the Ridgid flaring tool. Aluminum tubing is very soft so the tool can be used like this but sometimes I stick it in a vice which makes it a little easier.
Perfect flare every time.
Here's the new ones made up next to the old ones for comparison.
Detail of the heat shielding stuff.
Lines installed in the car. Couldn't get pics of where the lines attach to the case, there's not enough room and poor sight lines.
Here's the hard lines from the cooler to the bulkhead and the push lock hose to the hard lines. This custom stuff sure can take up a lot of time and money but I'm happy with how it turned out.
More to come.
