Help!!!!!

moparlover said
I agree with oldmanrick. to be honest that is too much piston unless you are running race gas, or alcohol or E85.

See my comments re: the gas mix in my reply to Rick....?

moparlover said
that being said... get some 10:1 pistons (kb-silvolite makes some rather inexpensive pieces.) again, use the forged crank make sure you have a neutral front balancer (required if using internal balance / forged crank) and a neutral flywheel. mandatory.

I'm afraid if I go with forged (for example) 10:1's using the 67cc J heads, actual CR will drop lower than I want it.

moparlover said
your other big expense will be valve springs, and having them installed/checked by the builder so there is no bind. they have to match your cam. if you have 40-yr old springs it's probably best they are replaced anyhow.

True dat...Heads have not been reworked yet, so I will at least have the springs checked, if not replaced.

moparlover said
those are your big expenses. did he check the block? most of them need a .010 over at least for clean-up; don't get your pistons until you know for sure. other work you will want from him is to balance the rotating assembly pieces for you. (balancer/flywheel/rods/pistons/crank)

Block was dipped, trued, and flex-honed, new cam bearings and freeze plugs and stuck in a body bag four years ago.....by the time I get to the build, I might have to have him check it over again. Crank was balanced for installation into this block.

moparlover said
if you are dead-set on using those 13:1's you should be dead-set on using race gas. even the 11.5:1 and a cam with huge overlap/duration is not going to stop detonation, you can retard the timing until you are blue in the face it wont help.
new pistons are about $300 and you will be better off ;)

Understood. And I appreciate your input!:D