Help!!!!!

Given what you have - I'm no fan of having to mix fuels on a car that runs on the street. I build primarilly street engines that run on pump gas. Yours would be no exception. So this is what I'd do and why:
- Use the forged crank - you will internally balance it and it's got the heaviest counterweights making it the best candidate.
- Take the pistons and either mill off the domes if possible - as was mentioned - just flip one over and look. A flat top with an open chamber head is where I'd want it.
- Static ratio no higher than 10:1. Prefer 9.8:1 if it's doable.
- Use the ported Js. The oldschool Tony can keep the 1.88s. They will need to be sunk to be run - use at least 2.02s and if the seats are bad I'll go as large as 2.05s assuming the porting is good and they can use it. If you think the 2.02s are too large take a look at any modern 4 cylinder that has 2 times the valve area and 1/4 of the displacement. I'll bet you the cost of the engine that you can't feel any loss of torque directly related to a larger intake valve.
- Buy an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap. I'll bet that same dollar amount that you will feel a loss of low end by not using this intake - and it will still make the same or more power up top.
- loose the smaller Holley . Buy something that gets you up around 750 in the oldschool cfm ratings, or 670 in the modern wet-flowed stuff (like the Street Avenger or HP series Holleys).
- Keep the factory distributor but recurve it for your package. Get a Standard Ignition control module for it.
- Buy a cheapie set of headers at minimum or a nicer set if the $$ is there. Either will work, the more expensive stuff makes a little more power (not much) but is easier to get in and will not be damaged by road dips or speed bumps.
- You said the heads were ported - have them flow tested and post the results before I can recommend camshaft. Also tell us what they have/had for rocker gear.