I used FelPro Kit FS 7918 PT-4, which I believe covers all the slants (even 170) It included the rubber seal which can be done without completely removing crank.
Do you know the history of the engine, mileage, previous work etc? I was originally only planning to 're-gasket' mine, but found myself in your situation of 'where do I stop?' As previously discussed that seal is a 'no brainer' , but to me the head gasket and valve seals were also a no brainer,,,, now the question is how far do you go? I ended up doing a complete teardown and I am glad I did. Apparently mine was rebuilt previously and they did not bother to change the cam bearings. The babbit was still in place, but separated from the backing just waiting to get loose and cause havoc. So, unless you are sure of what you got, or there is a compelling reason not to do it, I strongly suggest that you tear down/inspect everything. Since everything was within tolerance, I did not do a full rebuild. (I did lightly hone and re-ring) I will probably run it stock for a while but eventually plan to pull it again to do improvements. For now my focus is to get the car back together with a reliable drivetrain.
If a rear main seal is a rope type one, and not installed properly, you can " burn " the crank sealing surface, and still have a leak.
There is technique in installing a rope seal, that doesn't leak.....and it takes time.
