Tuning with jets, Power valves and an O2 guage

..... And RRR is BACK!
Thanks, Rob. When I pulled the valley pan off a few weeks ago, I saw that I only had the gaskets on the intake side. I read a few threads on the issue of using the paper gaskets and found that most people seem to skip them. Because of this, I put the valley pan on the engine without any of the paper gaskets, just gaskacinch around the ports. Yeah, I found oil in the intake ports of the heads. I found oil film on the intake manifold ports. Both sides of the valley pan ports were wet with oil.
THIS time I put the paper gaskets on both sides of the valley pan and cranked down the intake. I wanted to drive the car first thing this morning but the NEW valve cover gaskets leaked. THIS is an interesting story:

Yesterday I decided to change the valve cover gaskets since both had a small leak at the rear. I usually use the hard fibrous black gaskets, but all I had here was some rubber ones. I installed them with a thin layer of RTV on the covers to hold the gaskets still. This morning I came out to see both sides were still leaking. Looking up from the bottom, I could see the underside of each valve cover overhung the head by 1/4". The gaskets hung out at least 1/8" This is because the Mopar Performance cast aluminum valve covers are over 1/4" wider than the gasket rail on the Edelbrock heads. This isn't normally a problem when the hard gaskets are used, but the soft rubber ones distorted and allowed leaks. I guess now that I know this, I can use rubber gaskets as long as I made sure to hold the valve covers UP toward the intake to make sure the lower section of the valve cover makes FULL contact with the gasket rail on the head.
I removed the rubber gaskets, the RTV and cleaned the VCs again, then RTV'd on the better fibrous gaskets. I got busy with other things today and ran out of time. I may get the valve covers on tomorrow. If I do, I'll report my findings, good or bad.