Need a little schooling on steering couplers

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MOPARoldtimer

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When I removed the steering column on my '62 Valiant recently, the steering coupler sort of fell apart.

Should I rebuild or replace it?

Can anybody suggest a better replacement? Something a little more heat resistant? (It's a V8 conversion and the coupler is near the exhaust manifold.)

And are there supposed to be 2 of the little retainer thingies inside the coupler, or only one?

Thanks a lot!
 

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MOPARoldtimer said:
When I removed the steering column on my '62 Valiant recently, the steering coupler sort of fell apart.

Should I rebuild or replace it?

Can anybody suggest a better replacement? Something a little more heat resistant? (It's a V8 conversion and the coupler is near the exhaust manifold.)

And are there supposed to be 2 of the little retainer thingies inside the coupler, or only one?

Thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
you can rebuild it.the new kits have a little better top rubber piece it'll still melt if the manifolds right against it. don't loose that piece that you asked if you need 2 of, no you only need 1 (it goes side to side holding the side square-ish pieces against the coupler walls)or the top(metal clamp) piece since the rebuild kits have the later version and they don't fit well on the coupler. Rebuilding it will only be as good as the coupler going onto the steering box is. If it's worn out you will have a worn out newly rebuilt steering coupler with half the slop. I think you can get the newer style coupler (my 92 dodge truck looks similar but I need to check the spline,and 62's kinds of newish to me i usually go 63-66 car style) so you might be able to replace that also for a tight stock feel. ANY slop in the coupler will result in Steering wheel play. even when new these had a small amount of play.

Or go to a universal joint
I'm looking into the universal joint for my 66 dart (power steering) and think it's a 36 spline and will measure the shaft to make sure I get the correct joint for mine. I also will be mounting the steering column with a rubber piece in between it and the dash mount to absorb any extra vibration and allow some body flex movement that I have removed by taking out the sliding coupler. I did a borgeson joint in my 92 "wandering allover the road" truck and that was after I replaced all the other steering components, I was amazed and how nice the truck steered afterwards, it was like it was on rails AWESOME feel.that coupler makes the difference of fighting a drive or enjoying the drive.
 
The early A box coupling isn't the same as 2 nd gen'. Parts wont interchange. Parts for the earlier coupling are nearly impossible to find. Another member was needing a single part. I don't know if he ever found it.
I have to think a universal type coupling will surely be your best route.
Do the shopping and search past threads here because obscure sources are hard to find and price range is a mile wide.
Hope this helps.
 
Thanks a lot for the advice, guys, I don't think I need a u-joint because the steering column and the steering box are right in line with each other. I think I just need a regular coupler, but I'd like to find one that doesn't need to be stuffed with grease because it is right next to the exhaust. I will check out all the sources and then post again with the information that I find.
 
I don't think a rigid coupling will work very well. If too much movement and force is transmitted, Everything in the steering column will suffer , bearings, signal switch, etc..
 
Thanks a lot, everybody, for your suggestions. I think I have it under control; I am just going to re-use the old coupler. Everything inside looks to be in good shape. May I please ask a couple more questions, though:

1. Are the curved side of the steel blocks supposed to go toward the inside or the outside of the coupler?

2. The old orange rubber gasket broke. I think I'll just make a new one out of cork. Any problems with that?

3. How do you get the tabs to bend over and hold really well, so it won't come apart again?

(The end did come off the coupler long before I removed it, but I just kept on driving and it didn't seem to hurt anything.)
 
The curved side of blocks face away from steering shaft. I think cork should work inless it is to close to heat. And i use a pair of channel locks to bend tabs. I start on long sides work from center out wards then do ends. Im sure other people have there own ways but this works for me.
 
By the way, it turns out that Dorman has a rebuild kit for this steering coupler, and it is easier to obtain than the Mopar kit. The Dorman part no. is 425-253
 
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