360 CI/ 380 HP Really?

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AdamR said:
10* initial isnt enough for the motor. I would shoot for 15 to 18*
The Dougs headers will be fine.

What converter and flex plate do you have now ? The magnum motors use a different balance then earlier 360 LA motors.
Click to expand...
I have a B&M Holeshot converter in the car now. It was in the car when I bought it. it is a neutral balanced converter and I bought the correct B&M magnum flex plate for the crate engine. The notch or cutout is in a differnt place and is a different size between the magnum and LA flex plates
 
Perfect. I would call Dynamic and get a 9" converter built for it. It would likely end up in the 3500-4000rpm range but still drive well and stick some 3.91s in the rear.
 
I had to tune a customer's car equipped with 380 HP magnum engine. He had installed it in a 1969 Fury Convertible (originally a 318 /727 car).

Car had what I think was a relatively mild 3000 stall converter and a set of shorty TTI headers for a dodge truck (no one makes C-body/small block headers!).

When I get there the car wont even start. Look it over and find the pickup in the "brand new" MP distributor is loose (or has worked it self loose) and the gap is way too wide. reset that and car runs , sort of .

After a bunch of attempts at different timing and idel screw settings. i finally call the MP tech line. they have an "engineer" tell me to set timing at 14-15 BTDC at idle and total timing of no more than 36 BTDC. Any more timing and the engine will detonate.

I did and it sort of works better, but he still needs more gear (and converter) .

I tried to convince him to detune engine back to 300 hp specs, but he would not have it!
 
I want to thank everyone for all the replies, advice and info.Now that I have the 750 carb on with the correct power valve and the new Pertronix mechanical advance distributor somewhat dialed in I can feel the potential. I drove the car to work and back today and when accelerating from a turn or on a long hill I could feel the power and heard no detonation. When I shut the car off there was no "run on". It's close to winter now which usually last about 9 months here so since I bought no new projects for this winter I will have the time to swap out the converter, gears (or complete rearend if I go 8 3/4) and put some headers on. I'll have to start gathering some parts. Illl be checking For Sale Forum.
 
My brother had one new in the crate.There was a tag right on the motor that said DO NOT RUN ENGINE WITHOUT HEADDERS.I am guessing between no headders,timing off,and maybe the carb needs tuned to the engine that is why it's a pig..
 
We installed the 380hp magnum in a friends satellite a few years ago. It ran real well. it was a little lumpy, had between 9 and 10" of vacuum. Had hughes 2800 converter and 3.55 gears. car would run low 13s. Had 1-5/8 headers, holley vac 750. If I remember right, it liked around 34 deg total.
 
Friend of mine had the 360/380 in a nice custom 1st gen Dakota and it would tear up the streets. Really fun truck, but yes it was a bit of a handful too. Isn't that part of the fun?
 
Wanna make that thing go deep in the 12's?? Follow me...

Change the single plane intake for a Eddy Air Gap
Call Dynamic and order a 9.5" converter for your specific app
Add 3.91 gears and a 28" tall sticky tire
$99 1 5/8" headers, with 3" exhaust, Summit "race" muffs and tailpipes
Holley Street Avenger 770 UNTOUCHED, no choke needed here.

15-18* initial timing, total of 34-ish in by 2500-2800. Plug the vacuum advance or get a mech advance dizzy.

I have a bud that has the EXACT same combo as above in a 72 Demon and runs 12-teens in the summer heat @ damn near 3500 race ready #'s!(It will see 11.90's this fall/early next spring) runs GREAT on the street and...does not detonate on CA 91 octane one bit.
 
dusterdoug said:
Wanna make that thing go deep in the 12's?? Follow me...

Change the single plane intake for a Eddy Air Gap
Call Dynamic and order a 9.5" converter for your specific app
Add 3.91 gears and a 28" tall sticky tire
$99 1 5/8" headers, with 3" exhaust, Summit "race" muffs and tailpipes
Holley Street Avenger 770 UNTOUCHED, no choke needed here.

15-18* initial timing, total of 34-ish in by 2500-2800. Plug the vacuum advance or get a mech advance dizzy.

I have a bud that has the EXACT same combo as above in a 72 Demon and runs 12-teens in the summer heat @ damn near 3500 race ready #'s!(It will see 11.90's this fall/early next spring) runs GREAT on the street and...does not detonate on CA 91 octane one bit.
Click to expand...
and cali 91 is some crappy gas.
 
I have been playing with this 360/380 mopar engine in my Dart. I have found that the timing and distributor curve can make a huge difference in performance. So far I have seen the best results with 16 degree initial timing and 34 total all in by 2200rpm

I do have headers, a mild 11" street converter, and 4:10 gears in my car though.
I'm also running a msd distributor with a black 18 mechanical advance limit bushing and a light silver and light blue spring with no vacuum advance.
 
zhandfull said:
I have been playing with this 360/380 mopar engine in my Dart. I have found that the timing and distributor curve can make a huge difference in performance. So far I have seen the best results with 16 degree initial timing and 34 total all in by 2200rpm

I do have headers, a mild 11" street converter, and 4:10 gears in my car though.
I'm also running a msd distributor with a black 18 mechanical advance limit bushing and a light silver and light blue spring with no vacuum advance.
Click to expand...

Yup, I have to agree. I have the 390HP version, only difference is R/T heads. I run msd stuff with a custom 10* bushing from this site. I run 22* and 32* w/ a light blue and light silver. I have 3.91 and an a body 833 with the low first gear ratio.
 
bigtooth said:
Yup, I have to agree. I have the 390HP version, only difference is R/T heads. I run msd stuff with a custom 10* bushing from this site. I run 22* and 32* w/ a light blue and light silver. I have 3.91 and an a body 833 with the low first gear ratio.
Click to expand...

I currently have that same 10 degree bushing in my car as well. It idles really nice. I did take it to the track once with the 10 degree bushing and my 60' and ET are suffering. I can't say for sure if it has to do with the distributor and curve set up, but I suspect it does. More track testing is in order. :D
 
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