1971 Demon - My First Mopar Build

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Nice work with the stud gun.
 
Thanks! Harbor Freight Yellow Monster. :) The gun is only $99 and then they get you on the $25 box of studs. Kind of like printers and ink cartridges.
 
txtopcat said:
Thanks! Harbor Freight Yellow Monster. :) The gun is only $99 and then they get you on the $25 box of studs. Kind of like printers and ink cartridges.
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Good wat to attack it-

for some reason when I picked mine up they had the studs on clearance, so I loaded up. That gun is every bit as good as the unispotter one I used when I worked at a body shop. That yellow gun has transformed my car!

The knurled wheel on the slide hammer did wear out, had to order a whole new slide hammer from hf as replacement parts. buying 3 slide hammers @12 bucks each is still cheaper than the $100 unispotter one!
 

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Wow! Nice work! I'm not sure what I'm going to do in the areas that the body line crease is pretty much smooth. I really don't want to use filler and then block sand the line in. I'd rather build up the area with my MIG and then grind it down to where it needs to be. I'm worried about using filler on protruding edges and the paint chipping if it gets dinged or something.
 
Very nice project looks great so far, doing her right with the stud gun not filling with putty...keep up the good work :thumblef:
 
txtopcat said:
I'd rather build up the area with my MIG and then grind it down to where it needs to be. I'm worried about using filler on protruding edges and the paint chipping if it gets dinged or something.
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The problem with that is the heat will probably cause warpage. filler is a part of refinishing work- the problem is when it is used as the only method. I think you conscientiousness will bring you to get the metal as close as you can. One way to cheat is to use high fill primer, and block, but essentially its just spray bondo,

Keep up the good work :happy1:
 
Thanks for the input MoparDemon and CudaChris67!

I had wondered about the warping so I guess I'm stuck with filler and blocking. There could be worse issues for sure. :)
 
Slowly but surely!

I've been working on the passenger side since it is by far the worse. Took me a lot longer than I thought to get it somewhat straight. Finally got it to where I wanted it and got two coats of high build on for now. Going to go around the rest of the car and fix the rest of the areas that need it- roof, driver door, front valence, and rear tail area. Nothing as bad as the passenger side and it really was in decent shape compared to many I have seen. I've been really wanting to try out my new Iwata LPH400 soooooo...... I went ahead and sprayed the engine compartment. Two coats of base and clear and I'm in love with that gun. I don't prep the engine bay as well as I do the rest of the car so it's not perfect but it certainly wasn't the guns fault.

The reason I went ahead and painted the engine bay was because I am very ADD (ADHD for you old school folks) and get bored easily when on the same task very long. I'll have the body work completed and the car painted and ready to put back together by the end of this month. That should have the car on the road by the end of October unless the drought here ends and it rains often.

Hope everybody is enjoying their builds as much as I am!
 

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Well I can say your making better progress than me. I don't have ADD but sure do get sidetracked allot:D.

Keep up the great work txtopcat! Won't be too long you'll be able to drive that car.
 
Thanks J! I'm really getting excited to start putting stuff back on the car for a change.
 
txtopcat said:
Here's a couple more pics of the wheels and tires. I'm hoping I can lower the back of the car some with blocks and longer U-bolts so that it doesn't have such a raked look to it.
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Any idea what the offset of these wheels might be? Thx
 
txtopcat said:
Thanks! Harbor Freight Yellow Monster. :) The gun is only $99 and then they get you on the $25 box of studs. Kind of like printers and ink cartridges.
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Do you think it would work to tack studs on with a MIG? I have one small area to do.
 
CudaChris67 said:
looking good, keep it up
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Thanks Chris! I'm really having a good time with this. I just wish there were some other guys closer to help out. Makes it much more enjoyable when you can fellowship with like minded folks. Plus it goes a whole lot faster when there are more people helping.
 
txtopcat said:
Thanks Chris! I'm really having a good time with this. I just wish there were some other guys closer to help out. Makes it much more enjoyable when you can fellowship with like minded folks. Plus it goes a whole lot faster when there are more people helping.
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I have thrown three "Sanding Parties" over the years. I invite over my car competent friends and my brothers and take on a big labor intensive thing like stripping paint and prepping for primer. Beer and pizza provided by me of course. It is cheap fun slave labor and if I miss a year people start asking when the next one is!
 

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LOL! Great idea! Not sure if any of my friends are competent to sand after the primer is on. I'd be worried that too much pizza and beer and they would obliterate the body lines. HaHa
 
txtopcat said:
Not off hand but I will measure them first chance I get. I'm guessing I measure from the back of the hub to the outside edge of the rim?
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Close. I believe it's measured from the hub mounting face to the inside of the bead not the outside of the wheel
 
champyfz450 said:
Any idea what the offset of these wheels might be? Thx
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The fronts are 4" and the backs are 5 1/2". The kid I bought it from also put some spacers of some type on the rear hubs.
 

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Thanks! The serpentine set up is from March Performance. Total was $2,400 which included all the polished components- water pump, alternator, compressor, and remote reservoir PS pump.
 
txtopcat said:
The fronts are 4" and the backs are 5 1/2". The kid I bought it from also put some spacers of some type on the rear hubs.
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I wonder if they were necessary to run that 5-1/2 offset so that the tires wouldn't hit the leafs
 
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