start of body work

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luckysgarage said:
Whatever products you decide to use, make sure to read the tech sheets for that product. It will give you their recommendations for application of the product. Very help full. Usually can be found at the products website.
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x2
more important than most other advice

AdamR said:
I agree with Moparkid. I wont do an old car without stripping it to bare metal. If you dont have time do strip the entire car and prime in a day, do a panel or 2 at a time and epoxy them.
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yup

AdamR said:
dont use spray cans, It will cost a fortune and you will have to re strip it.
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do not trust your hours of work and thousands of dollars in subsequent paint materials to the bond of a spray can primer. Plus it can rust though even indoors from the humidity in the air.

any flash or surface rust that can appear in the week or two it takes you to finish stripping will likely easily be removed with a quick pass of the DA sander anyway
 
Called a local soda blaster today he told me $400.00 to do the whole car,That was his cash price,Help please???? Is this good,bad or indifferent--OK NO SPRAY CANS-----Steve
 
I am putting together my plan for the body work for my car this winter and spring. I was wondering how you prep the door sills and inner parts of the car that might be painted the same as the exterior of the car? I am going to take most of the interior out this winter to make sure the floor pans are solid and because I need a new headliner and seat covers anyway.
 
Prep the door sills and jams the same way you do the rest of the car. If they are peeling and look like **** they need to be stripped. If they are really nice and clean you can hand sand them, prime and paint. How nice they come out depends on how far you want to take them.
 
ok-I'm afraid to ask this but,Good supplies on the web for primer ????? and here we go--A first timers spray gun?????? steve
 
$400 to soda strip whole car? Looks like you're just down the road from me. Would like to get that contact info in case I decide to go that route. I've stripped with 80 on DA before, it's not that bad, so that's what I was going to do (and probably will do). I hope you have a good air compressor.
 
Just to a search for soda blasters in Milwaukee,They have a portable unit and come right to your site,He told me $200/hour with soda and said they can usually get a car done in under 2 hours--They have a video to watch on the web-site,Also asked if he would do a cash deal and his reply was positive---the video is quite impressive as they did a chevelle in a hour--and because mine is on a rotisserie it makes it faster. Steve
 
$400 for soda blasting is a deal.
 
swifter said:
Just to a search for soda blasters in Milwaukee,They have a portable unit and come right to your site,He told me $200/hour with soda and said they can usually get a car done in under 2 hours--They have a video to watch on the web-site,Also asked if he would do a cash deal and his reply was positive---the video is quite impressive as they did a chevelle in a hour--and because mine is on a rotisserie it makes it faster. Steve
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OK, there are several, that's why I asked which one you meant, but with the Chevelle video clue, I was able to figure out which one. This car I'm going to disc strip since it's not coming apart, but this is good to know possibly for a future car. Since your car is apart and on the spit, I think it makes most sense to just have it blasted.
 
Thanks 72--Yep I'm just north of you in Newburg,Got a bunch of Mopar Misfit's up here--Steve
 
ANYONE???? on supplies--Paint gun to choose??? Thanks Steve
 
swifter said:
ANYONE???? on supplies--Paint gun to choose??? Thanks Steve
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I have discussed the primers and clear coat from http://southernpolyurethanes.com/
in my build thread.

So far great products, easy to use, excellent customer service and very useful user forums that are frequented by the owner. Oh and free shipping if they do not have a supplier near you.

For sealer/epoxy primer I use a harbor freight purple gun with a 1.3/1.4 tip that goes on sale for about $15

For High Fill primer I use a 2.2 tipped gun I bought from Amazon
http://amzn.com/B000UVHM3W

I like it very much for a cheap gun.

For paint and clear I decided I wanted one of the best and bought an Iwata Supernova.

Challengergary recently started a thread about sprayguns that explains the preferences many on the forum have:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=250470
 
Omni 2K black epoxy primer
Transtar High Build Primer
Transtar Rage And Gold Mud
Omni 2K primer seal
your choice of color
matching brand of clear
 
The method i have been using for years to strip a car down is rough up the paint with a Da 80 grit then chemical strip it 1 guy can do it in a day, then we shoot it with epoxy, do all the body work, the when it's ready we use Sher Wil 21 hi build poly then get the board out for some hours!!!
 

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Autobody tool mart has a good selection of materials to get you started. 400 for a strip is cheap. You are going to spend at least 150 just on **** to get started stripping and its an unpleasant mess. Soda blasting gets in all the little spaces sanding or even chemical stripper won't. I've always used Aircraft stripper but like I said its messy, burns the **** out of your skin and usually takes multiple coats, and its not real cheap.
 
So need help: If you look in the resto thread you'll see the bottom of our car,I mean it's unreal how clean it came out almost zero rust let me know what you would do next????? i was going to spray eastwood rust encapsulator and lizard skin over that ????What would you do REMEMBER it is a strip car NO street--Thanks Steve
 
Any suggestions????? I ordered the inner frame spray-What the heck I might as well do it,everything is exposed at this point--Steve
 
I stripped all of my factory undercoating off and used SMART brand truck spray liner and lined the entire bottom of my car. It's a bit messy but is stronger than any other crap on the market aside from taking it in to a Linex dealer and having it done. 120.00 for the kit and 60 bucks for the shutz gun. Looks amazing and is resistant to everything. I've got pictures on my resto thread as well.
 
Anybody spray the engine bay area without removing the motor? I don't have unlimited space to work with and I don't have an engine lift.
 
1969VADart said:
Anybody spray the engine bay area without removing the motor? I don't have unlimited space to work with and I don't have an engine lift.
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It can be done, you just need to pull off everything you can and get it out of the way.

Some areas will be extremely difficult to get coverage in.

Even with that, the end result will be less than what it would have been with the engine removed.
 
SEM products are about the only decent ones from a spray can. We always called an 8" DA sander a mudslinger cuz with a 36 grit disc it can rip body filler pretty quickly.
 
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