Paint and primer help

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rumblefish360

rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
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I started on my Cuda (73, don't shoot me) and I want to repaint it the OE color, Dark Bronze metalic, i forget the paint code, reguardless....

Who and where should I get the paint and primer from? How made the OE paint for Chrysler? Anybetter these days...LOL
Thanks crew.
 
You can go to auto color library dot com for a paint code. I have used several paint systems in the shops. PPG is good, Dupont is good, Sikkens is better... and Glasurit is very good too. PPG makes an "off" brand called Omni... it sucks. Cheap but it sucks. Use a good epoxy as a sealer, base clear. Also make sure when you are using your filler primer use one that has good corrosion properties. NCP270 is a great filler primer with awesome corrosion resistance.
 
epoxy as a sealer, base clear
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and/or
NCP270 is a great filler primer with awesome corrosion resistance.
Click to expand...
This is primer?

Sorry, I should have also stated I now Nothing. He he he, this ought to be fun.
 
OE was Ditzler enamel, Ditzler is now PPG, look for a PPG auto paint supplier in your area, for primers I would use DPLF epoxy primer and K36 high build primer, for basecoat I like DBC, DBU is also good but uses a reactive reducer, as for clears they have a few different urethane clears that are tailored to different spraying environments. IMO, for the most part, PPG produces user friendly high quality products. Hope this helps
 
Yes, indeed it does.

I will also have a freind from high school helping me with some of this, the bigger panel replacement issues. He's a career body man 25 years and counting.
 
I will give you a ppg list of good products to use.

Do all of your bodywork. Then spray with NCP270. NCP is a filler primer. As stated above K36 is a good primer also... but has NO corrosion resistance. I don't like that so I never use it. NCP can go over bare metal, or properly sanded paint and such. Sand the NCP with 320-400 grit. Use ppg dplf epoxy as a sealer... the spray your base coat.. dbu or dbc. Dbu has great color match but takes a reactive reducer... so once mixed you can't keep it long. I would suggest DBC as stated above... just mix with reducer. Then a good clear.. 2002 is a great "complete" clear... when I say complete it works well for large area's.
 
WOW! Thanks.
How's primer in the wet weather? No good? I ask because I see guys running around in there rides with nothing but primer, 1 guy year after year. (He just like the look)
This car will sit for awhile when the big parts come down.

but until then, I'd like to break in the engine and enjoy some of this up coming weather.
 
If you are going to leave it in primer for extended time use the dplf epoxy... it will hold up much longer than filler primer. Filler primer will soak up moisture and that will spell disaster. I don't suggest leaving it in any time of primer in weather but you do what you have to sometimes.
 
OK, thanks. I don't want to drive it in the rain on purpose, but it can happen. It'll be something I WILL try to avoid. It is in the garage now. It has a spot, no problem. Though it has no heat. Getting this one done will take sometime to do. Full panel replacements in the rear and such big things are going to happen. I know this won't happen fast.
 
So I dig up my old thread while I work on my Magnum. I'm doing some quick rust repair. And of course, one thing leads to another. So I'm having at it before the weather turns. OH! I'm working on it outside. I'm down to the bare metal and have gotten some flash like type rust.

Is the POR-15 Metal ready ok to use? OR......

I have OMNI Epoxy Primer MP171 for use.
 
rumblefish360 said:
So I dig up my old thread while I work on my Magnum. I'm doing some quick rust repair. And of course, one thing leads to another. So I'm having at it before the weather turns. OH! I'm working on it outside. I'm down to the bare metal and have gotten some flash like type rust.

Is the POR-15 Metal ready ok to use? OR......

I have OMNI Epoxy Primer MP171 for use.
Click to expand...

just knock it off with a da and 80 grit and cover with your favorite epoxy primer.

it is not clear if you are talking about a quarter panel or the trunk floor or?

I would not use a direct paint over rust product like POR 15 or Rustbullet on the exterior of a panel. In order to get the thickness required for it to do its job(encapsulate rust) it would look terrible.
 
Plym1948 said:
OE was Ditzler enamel, Ditzler is now PPG, look for a PPG auto paint supplier in your area, for primers I would use DPLF epoxy primer and K36 high build primer, for basecoat I like DBC, DBU is also good but uses a reactive reducer, as for clears they have a few different urethane clears that are tailored to different spraying environments. IMO, for the most part, PPG produces user friendly high quality products. Hope this helps
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Same system I use, been using PPG for years with good results. Using 2002 clear, my `72 cuda was painted in `95 and is driven hard and put away wet and still looks great.
 
the man is right, ive painted several cars & I always use ppg, dbc base & 2002 clear its alittle expensive but you get what you pay for, when it comes time to wet sand & buffing you love the 2002 clear GOOD LUCK
 
CudaChris67 said:
just knock it off with a da and 80 grit and cover with your favorite epoxy primer.

it is not clear if you are talking about a quarter panel or the trunk floor or?

I would not use a direct paint over rust product like POR 15 or Rustbullet on the exterior of a panel. In order to get the thickness required for it to do its job(encapsulate rust) it would look terrible.
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Thanks Chris.

I was wondering about a "Rust converter" and not a encapsulater.

I'm on the firewall/cowl and the frame rails, rad support. No inner fenders since the late B body cars have them bolted in. I have small time windows in which to work in. This makes the process slow. I have a lot of exposed metal at the moment and a few good days until the next forecasted rain on Sunday.

I would like to produce a nice firewall. Since everything else is some why hidden and less of an attention getter, a show quality finish is not expected. I would like a nice driver since I'll be driving this everywhere. But certain area can and may lack. This, I'm OK with.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Thanks Chris.

I was wondering about a "Rust converter" and not a encapsulater.

I'm on the firewall/cowl and the frame rails, rad support. No inner fenders since the late B body cars have them bolted in. I have small time windows in which to work in. This makes the process slow. I have a lot of exposed metal at the moment and a few good days until the next forecasted rain on Sunday.

I would like to produce a nice firewall. Since everything else is some why hidden and less of an attention getter, a show quality finish is not expected. I would like a nice driver since I'll be driving this everywhere. But certain area can and may lack. This, I'm OK with.
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Rust converter in a can may have adverse effects when trying to apply the epoxy (won't stick). for hidden areas por 15/rust bullet is fine. if you must use canned rust converter, or a liquid application such as SEM's Rustmort, you will need to subsequently rinse the parts thoroughly with water, potentially causing additional surface rust if left for too long.
 
TCP Global has some nice paints, I'm gonna try the SPI clear with their base.
 
Thanks Chris

P Dart, I have no clue what your saying.
 
Rumble,TCP Global,sell the old PPG toners( the lacquer,I shot,decent),out of San Dieg;o,Ca. A good supply house,freight might kill you.(ask Adam.. ). I would stay ,with the local paint rep. Winter's coming,seal it up....
 
Abodybomber said:
Rumble,TCP Global,sell the old PPG toners( the lacquer,I shot,decent),out of San Dieg;o,Ca. A good supply house,freight might kill you.(ask Adam.. ). I would stay ,with the local paint rep. Winter's coming,seal it up....
Click to expand...

I found a guy on ebay that ships PPG deltron paints...who happens to be in NY

if you know what color you want it is a good way to go.

So far I am loving the SPI http://southernpolyurethanes.com/ Clearcoat. easy to spray and went down nice.
 
OK. I'm just looking to find out if a rust converter is OK under primer for the small flash rust I have.
 
Sem's"Rust-Mort".Call it,a day.....No obnoxious residue, hit with primer.
 
I never heard of that stuff. I'll have to do a search for it locally.
Rise with water only and air dry w/compressed air.

Roger roger! Thanks
 
Oh yes, with the paint, it'll be a PPG as to put back what was there or at least the quality of it. I'm not dead sure I want the "Spiniker White" again.
 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/paint-body/2390196-restoration-shop-paint.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573816072-post21.html

"IMHO the Restoration shop base coat is very similar to PPG deltron 2000 DBC. It even smells the same. But it is thinner when un-reduced. They even recommend using the PPG DX57 Deltron basecoat hardener in their basecoat. Their clear coat on the other hand is far from PPG quality. The speed clear sucks. I don't like it. But their Polyurethane clear is very good. "

http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspubprod.aspx
 
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