TQ question

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No haters please,,BUT guys that have well tuned TQ'S use Holley's as door stops......
Couldn't help myself.!
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
The 72 to about 74 or 75 TQUAD are best. The 75, 76 truck quads are good also because lack of EPA junk, jets can be found for them or you can take stock ones and drill out. That said there are a few racers that swear the 71 and early 1000 quads are slightly better. I have 4 of the 71's and the ultra ultra rare jet and rod kit for them, but I haven't run one yet so can't say first hand. Big key is to make sure the center section is not warped and is square, and when seting up use the factory spec to start and do them in the order specified in the FSM. If anyone needs the jet drilled LMK
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I ran a 71 TQ and stock intake on my 273. On the street, every day, for years, Stock, it made a believer out of me. It was still breaking into 13's in the quarter with a 100,000 mile 340 in a Duster before that. I never understood why they always said to go with a 72 or newer...
 
66fs said:
I've found this to work the best for me also. But my cars tend to be more steet than anything else. International Harvester also had OEM TQ's. If I remember correctly they had electric chokes. In general Big block TQ's are richer than small block TQ's and Original HP TQ's are a better place to start when setting up a HP engine. But all of them can be made to run great. I'll also second the "two part epoxy" for the well plugs. Not saying something else won't work, but that is what I use, and have had no problems.
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Well yeah. The big block carbs have 1 1/2" primaries and the small block 1 3/8". 850 and 800 respectively.

I wasn't including the IH stuff because they have some bastardized linkage and whatnot that makes them more of a parts carburetor for a Mopar.
 
66fs said:
I ran a 71 TQ and stock intake on my 273. On the street, every day, for years, Stock, it made a believer out of me. It was still breaking into 13's in the quarter with a 100,000 mile 340 in a Duster before that. I never understood why they always said to go with a 72 or newer...
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There was a recall on the 71 carbs for some reason that may result in fire, can't remember what the exact problem was but when you went to the dealer they swapped out the 71 for a 72 carb.
 
Another reason to use the earlier Carbs is they have a port for the distributer vacuum advance. Lean burn did not use one so they deleted it. Yes, most big blocks had the 1 1/2 inch primaries. "74" 360's did not.
 
DionR said:
You could do what I did and build a bracket to mount the aftermarket TQ choke setup if you don't have the choke well in your manifold.

Anyone know where to find a new choke cover though? Apparently they are made of unobtainium.

Something else to be aware of though is the transfer wells in the bottom of the fuel bowl. They can leak and cause problems. Rusty, do you have a way of repairing them?
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The bowls can be JB welded.

Nice work on the backer of the electric choke. Now here's the real trick, do it for the easy to get unit from Edelbrock. Ive made it work before I the same/similar manor.
 
Captainkirk said:
Would the single planes have a weaker vacuum signal?

And would this help make up for it?

The car would NOT be a daily driver.....more of a car show thing and a tear-em-up toy. No strip time, likely, either.
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Generally speaking the single plain would have a weaker signal but not always is it the case. Plenum size has a roll in this.. I would not recommend something that wouldn't work.

EL5DEMON340 said:
The 72 to about 74 or 75 TQUAD are best. The 75, 76 truck quads are good also because lack of EPA junk, jets can be found for them or you can take stock ones and drill out. That said there are a few racers that swear the 71 and early 1000 quads are slightly better. I have 4 of the 71's and the ultra ultra rare jet and rod kit for them, but I haven't run one yet so can't say first hand. Big key is to make sure the center section is not warped and is square, and when seting up use the factory spec to start and do them in the order specified in the FSM. If anyone needs the jet drilled LMK
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Ditto and me too.

RustyRatRod said:
Well yeah. The big block carbs have 1 1/2" primaries and the small block 1 3/8". 850 and 800 respectively.

I wasn't including the IH stuff because they have some bastardized linkage and whatnot that makes them more of a parts carburetor for a Mopar.
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The early years of the TQ, the small primary was often found on small blocks but not so much so in the later years.
 
RustyRatRod said:
...I wasn't including the IH stuff because they have some bastardized linkage and whatnot that makes them more of a parts carburetor for a Mopar.
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X2 mostly for the integral electric choke. Never had one myself. Just thought they had the electric choke and housing.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Now here's the real trick, do it for the easy to get unit from Edelbrock. Ive made it work before I the same/similar manor.
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Got one to mess with but haven't been able to make time to try and figure it out.

66fs said:
Yes, most big blocks had the 1 1/2 inch primaries. "74" 360's did not.
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The #6454 that is right for my car, and is on the car, has 1 1/2" primaries. It's not the one that came on the car as all I got was a shortblock when I pulled the car out of the wrecking yard, but the number's are right. Per the info that Gary Lewallen (aka Vaanth) put on the internet, some of the '73 340 cars had TQ's with 1 1/2" primaries (specifically #6339 and 6340 for the CA cars) and most '74 360 cars had 1 1/2" primaries (#6452, 6453, 6454, 6455, 6488, 9002 and 9004). There appears to some '74 non HP motors that came with small primaries (#9013 and 9022), but it appears that all HP 360's had the large primary TQ's. I could be missing something, but I'm 99% certain my '74 360 did come with 1 1/2" primaries.

Seems like someone on this thread said something about running an adapter. If so, here's a warning. The adapter I am running would have left me with a huge vacuum leak if I had just bolted it down. I had to run some extra plates and gaskets (from Edelbrock, but don't remember what they were for now). If you run an adapter, check it with the TQ before just bolting it down. And if possible, smooth the transition between the adapter and intake, mine had a huge shelf that would have been an issue. Just some info.

DusterMotor026.jpg
 
66fs said:
X2 mostly for the integral electric choke. Never had one myself. Just thought they had the electric choke and housing.
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I believe some of them did.
 
DionR said:
Seems like someone on this thread said something about running an adapter. If so, here's a warning. The adapter I am running would have left me with a huge vacuum leak if I had just bolted it down. I had to run some extra plates and gaskets (from Edelbrock, but don't remember what they were for now). If you run an adapter, check it with the TQ before just bolting it down. And if possible, smooth the transition between the adapter and intake, mine had a huge shelf that would have been an issue. Just some info.
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That was me, and I am hoping to NOT use an adapter...I know the pitfalls.:D
 
Captainkirk said:
That was me, and I am hoping to NOT use an adapter...I know the pitfalls.:D
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I think the problems are exaggerated, provided there isn't a lip at the transition from adapter to intake (and no vacuum leaks). Can't see how it matters, adapter or spacer, as long as airflow isn't disrupted. Mine runs great, very happy with it.
 
Just info add to thread. I went out to check my 360 out back.
This is what came on my 74 360 duster. Ran smooth. Turns out to be non-factory. I never knew, it looks original to me.
PN 9801S which is a "perf / off-road" Carter - Mopar TQ. Not sure of primary size. Not for sale btw.
 

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Primaries on all the Superquads (which is what that 9801S is) 1 3/8". They were all 800s. They are nice carburetors. They had the best metering rods and jets that any of them ever came with. I'd keep it too.
 
DionR said:
...The #6454 that is right for my car, and is on the car, has 1 1/2" primaries. It's not the one that came on the car as all I got was a shortblock when I pulled the car out of the wrecking yard, but the number's are right. Per the info that Gary Lewallen (aka Vaanth) put on the internet, some of the '73 340 cars had TQ's with 1 1/2" primaries (specifically #6339 and 6340 for the CA cars) and most '74 360 cars had 1 1/2" primaries (#6452, 6453, 6454, 6455, 6488, 9002 and 9004). There appears to some '74 non HP motors that came with small primaries (#9013 and 9022), but it appears that all HP 360's had the large primary TQ's. I could be missing something, but I'm 99% certain my '74 360 did come with 1 1/2" primaries.
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Most of my carbs are not at the house, so I can not confirm or deny. I do have a couple 6453s as they are desirable. I will bow to your "99% certain".
 
If you rebuild the TQ, make sure that you check the air horn gasket fits correctly as there are slight differences in the casting between some models.I recently had this issue. The incorrect gasket I had on there was not completely sealing off the idle feed hole between the air horn and fuel bowl. This made it idle rough and drip from the booster at idle.

Hope this helps,just a bit of info! TQ's run great when you get 'em right, great carb.
 
66fs said:
Most of my carbs are not at the house, so I can not confirm or deny. I do have a couple 6453s as they are desirable. I will bow to your "99% certain".
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Hope I didn't come across as argumentative. Wasn't trying to throw anything in your face.
 
DionR said:
Hope I didn't come across as argumentative. Wasn't trying to throw anything in your face.
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No, you were fine. Sometimes you know you shouldn't say something, but you do anyway. The general rule was small block = small primaries, big block = large primaries. I usually double check myself, but am in the process of moving and most of my good stuff is in another state. If you know you are right you should stick up for yourself. Thanks for the consideration.
 
Captainkirk said:
Rusty, are there certain mods you do to a TQ for street/strip application that you would recommend?
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For your engine/drive-line specs, you would really be best served to start with an early 850 non smogger T.Q.

With the right mods such as choke plate removal and corrected jetting(good for another 30-40 hp over stock), and several internal mods. This carb would be hard to beat in both performance and gas mileage.

I could avg 16 mpg with my 10.4:1 compression 340, with 292 dur/.480" lift cam, 340 LD Edelbrock intake, headers, 3.91 gears and 2,500 stall converter at 65 mph on the highway. No WAY to do that with a Holley or most other carbs.

The carb build is only as good as the prep work as well as having the full drive-line specs. And lastly having the correct carb for the build

So yes, a T.Q. is a great carb, responds beautifully to air flow increases and works great on modded engines when set up for modded engines. Just don't expect a totally stock early T.Q. to work best on a non stock engine, instead set it up properly and you will not be disappointed.

Here are some pics 2nd carb, of a street/strip build for a non stock 430 hp 340 I built for a customer, for a total of 910 cfm's. And the 2ndaries have been made adjustable for a quick re-jet with another 70 cfm's to increase the total flow to 980 cfm's.

and the 1st pic is a full race build for a mud racer's 540 cu in bb Ford 385 series truck. Note the blue Earls 1/8" pipe fittings at the fuel rail entries for the needle seats. This was done to cap off the opening of the fuel rails to increase(approx 35% to the needle seats) the proper fuel flow for hi hp and rpm's, an absolutely necessary mod for T.Q.'s in full race mode.

David

a street/strip build with added remove-able bleed system
and a full race build(no choke tower)and my added custom remove-able bleed system)
 

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Wow... Friggin drooling over those TQs.

Also, what are those air inlet jets for? It looks like alien technology applied to a TQ for faster than light travel :D.. sorry I got excited there for a minute
 

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