8 3/4 guru need your help

Great tech info, from someone who seems to have much experience.It was a little deeper explaination of it all to help the guy which is great.I was trying to keep it simple stupid.
Funny thing about the flexing issue, you said exactly what I said, you just changed and added to the wording!But you are correct, there are different 9" housing, some are stronger then others. I run the larger housing, but you left out the most important part. When most 9" housings are narrowed, they use heavy wall 3" tubing, this is why you don;t need a back brace.Yes, @ 900 HP you need a back brace, but a 600HP car, even with a Tbrake no.
I WAS comparing a stock carrier to stock carrier, not my nodular........I didn't just fall off the potato truck! LOL......I was also comparing the complete package,housing etc. When you set them side by side, stock to stock parts (including the bearing caps which are wimpier).
As for weight of Dana over 9" Where did I say 50-90 lbs? I think you are on the conservative side on your weight calculations,But never the less,18lbs is 18lbs more weight, so "it is heavier" anything heavier is heavier period.Every lb is E.T. lost.
Chipping of the teeth,I'll stick to my guns on that one, not saying what you are saying is not part of it. In reality it is also because most all of the ring gear sets are imported now, and made of cheap chineese metal.That is also why you can hardley get a ring gear setup that won't make noise no matter how hard you try.
But after all you said, why then does the whole racing market sell and build 9" Fords for performance/racing, and not the 8 3/4"
Lastly, my point was, if you dump the same cash (or less) into a 9" as you do a 8 3/4, you will have a much stronger diif.But if you are a die hard Mopar guy, and can't handle other makers parts in your car, then a Dana or beefed up 8 3/4 is the way to go.