bogging 318
Well now I have been trying numerous things and I am sure of this, the car is still bogging at the start of acceleration, and never trust new or remand parts.
And I know my timming adjustments have been correct in their changes vs affect as well as air/fuel and voltage output are good. so it has to a quirky accelorator pump causing these problems.
Although the accerator pump seems to be spraying even streams throughout the throtle range. At slow and moderate acceleration the accelorator pump seems to be speratic in how it works (sometimes a dribble, sometime times late start, sometimes thin streams. So at this point I am in the process of preping the old carb to reinstall, knowing the accelorator pump was good. This will hopfully correct the problem and it will just be a matter of new seals and gaskets for the old carb (if it works).
My new question to an ongoing process is this, Since a moderate to fast acceloration on accelorator pump shoots 2 thick, fast and strong streams. What should the accelorator pump streams look like with very light, slow, constant accleration? Should they be thin, fast and strong? or thick, slow and week?
And I am sure of this...
A 318 with stock everything except headders and air breather does exactly what you would think it would do changing various adjustments, ie. timming, air/fuel. And it comes down to this...
Assuming all new parts are working correctly...
Start with timming (with vacume unhooked) to get it running, get it warm, then adjust cub idle screw to give you 750rpm and move to air/fuel screws (with a starting point of 2.5 turns out) adjust to a richer setting (1/4 turn at a time) to the highest rpm increase.
Then back off on the curb idle back to 750 and recheck the timming to have a starting point (2 - 12 degrees advanced @ 750rpm with no vacume advance or mechanical advance), and this should have a driveable car with basic stock performance
At this point is where the fine tuning for performance starts such as timing advance, which effects idle rpm and acceleration. Or Air/fuel idle mixture wich effects economy, heat, and idle rpm. And then there is vacume advance which changes the rate which timming is advanced at the beggining of the rpm curve.
And for me in nutural at least, it seems the 10 degrees advanced @ 750rpm prior to vacume advace hook up. Seems to work the best overall, allowing good throtle response, clean burn, easy starts, and even warm up.
Thank you for all the feedback and help,
I hope with the last bit of input of this thread will be able to ensure anyone will be able to have the stock small block running and put them on the track to fine tune for their own preference.
Thanks again I hope to here back