New VR for Pertronix III?

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RBConvert

RBConvert

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I just got the Pertronix Ingnitor III billet plug n play distrbutor and the FlameThrower III coil to replace the stock points/dizzy in my 440 - '69 Coronet. Do I need to upgrade the VR to a EI version? I've read posts that the post-69 VR is needed but when I talked to Pertronix tech, they said as long as the ballast resistor is removed and 12V gets to the coil it doesn't matter what VR I have. I'm so confused....
 
I have the same system in my 69 dart .. and i kept on going through voltage regulators .... i ended up buying EI regulator for 20 dollars ... BUT they would not last... then i got the info from here to buy the better one from NAPA ... i think it cost me like 60-70 dollars and never had an issue since ... Do a search for EI voltage regulators and i am sure that you will get your answer...
 
The thing is, most all replacement, aftermarket 69/ earlier regulators are already electronic. The way to tell is look at the bottom of the regulator. If there is two great big resistors underneath, it's the old style mechanical relay. If not, it's actually electronic "in the same box." Some aftermarket replacement use a short squatty cover, and easy to spot

Below is a modernized electronic regualtor "in the old box"

80f4_35.JPG


Below is an original '69 / earlier mechanical one as evidenced by the two resistors

440-1621-large.jpg


Also can be used, is the better quality and more expensive NAPA or Standard, which look different but hook up electrically Echlin VR1001 or Standard VR-128. I suspect that the famous Mopar "blue" racing regulator is in reality the same damn thing

41-aG0961CL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


regulator_zps0d75acd7.jpg
 
Right on! thank you both for clearing that up. And also on the wires; I'm currently running the 7mm.

I have two more questions: to by pass the resistor can I just spice the wires together? And is it critical to find TDC before pulling the dizzy or can i pull it where it's at as long as I'm certain to line up the rotor to the same cylinder on the cap?
 
Just note where the dist is, don't rotate the engine, and put the dist. back same. It only goes in two ways. I don't believe with a Pertronix that you want to bypass the coil resistor.
 
I found male-male spade connectors in the bubble packs years ago that make it easy to plug the 2 ballast connectors together. You could also make the same w/ a short piece of wire and male terminals. You are correct that the Ignitor II or III doesn't require a ballast, and can use a hotter coil. The III adds multi-spark.
 
Thanks everyone for their help. O'Reillys '69 VR was the original mechanical so I'll keep looking - there's a NAPA store in town I can check out.
Haven't decided to keep the firewall old school or clean it up but either way I like the ideas.
 
If you don't care about keeping the original (ugly) black-box look, I got a thin chrome electronic Vreg with the same footprint and early terminals (your 69) for $11 off rockauto. In my 65 Dart, I installed a later square-back alternator and put the later Vreg (triangle connector) next to it on the inner fender.
 
BillGrissom said:
If you don't care about keeping the original (ugly) black-box look, I got a thin chrome electronic Vreg with the same footprint and early terminals (your 69) for $11 off rockauto. In my 65 Dart, I installed a later square-back alternator and put the later Vreg (triangle connector) next to it on the inner fender.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bill. I already ordered the ugly black EI VR off of e-bay.

BTW, are 8mm wires required with these high voltage EI systems? The 7mm on there now look new so I'd rather not replace them if it's not necessary.
 
The black ones did not last on my vehicle... eventually the vehicle started to overcharge .. i ended up buying the NAPA one with stud on front .. NO More issues .
 
rrvolare said:
The black ones did not last on my vehicle... eventually the vehicle started to overcharge .. i ended up buying the NAPA one with stud on front .. NO More issues .
Click to expand...

Interesting. I'll keep an eye on it, meanwhile I printed this thread out for future reference.
 
If you have problems with regulators blowing, also make sure that the alternator is putting out the stated amperage. I got an off the shelf alternator, and blew two of the std ignition regulators. The "old car" mechanic couldn't diagnose my problem. An alternator rebuild shop found that the amps were too high. He switched out the diodes(?) and I've not had a problem since then.
As little as I will drive the car, I am sticking with the standard distributor. I'd rather throw the money into better brakes.

Great board exchange and pictures above, folks.
 
Here's an update - got the solid state VR in; so far, so good. Went to install the Pertonix this weekend and it didn't fit! Stock cast iron heads too. The OD is bigger than stock and it was contacting the casting ridge on the edge of the head. Had to grind down the ridge a little but now it fits. But by the time I painted the bald spot it was getting late so it hasn't fired up yet. Should be this week sometime.
 
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