Lookig for someone who has installed a B&M cable operated shifter,,

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grassy

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I am putting a B&M ratchet cable on a console that I am building. The cable is 5 foot. Where should I drill the hole so to connect it to the trans best and not incinerated by my TTi headers ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
my shifter started out as a b & m quick silver. i made my own shifter arm and cover. i ran my cable inside a length of 8AN braided hose. then i ran it thru floor and down the passenger side of trans. then around the front of the inspection cover by torque converter right in front of trans pan. then it circles to the cable bracket. mine has worked perfect all summer.

 
I run a Quicksilver as well. The hole in the floor has to be directly ahead of the shifter, as the cable can't bend much in that short of a distance. After two burned cables I routed mine up over the bellhousing and back down and anchored it using the hole on the trans that the kickdown bell crank used to occupy. I am using a lokar kickdown. The cable is inside a silicone catalytic convertor hose with a DEI sleeve over it. So far no problems.
 

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Excellent picture! Making use of a bolt to hold that metal band (AKA bracket) to hold the cable away from hot headers. I made that mistake once. A zip tie fixed it. I like what you did better.
 
I split 3/8 fuel hose and zip tied it over the cable to protect it from the heat.
 
i ran mine @2 " in front of shifter and used the same insulator (velcro) as qkcuda, its tight but very doable (my first cable lasted 4 days without insulation,but has been on for 2 months now with no problem)also used metal ties as a stand-off from my tti headers
72 dart swinger 416 ci,super commando heads,727 trans,
 
Thanks !!

I line may be too long..it is 5 foot.

my shifter is a B&M Pro Ratchet ..I bought it from a member in either '09 or '10. Here is a pic..

http://www.jegs.com/p/B-M/B-M-Pro-Ratchet-Race-Shifters/745771/10002/-1

I too have a Lokar knockdown cable.

I was thinking of using so industrial hydraulic hose to put the cable in to shield from the headers. BTW, great pictures qkcuda..for me, pictures help tremendously.
 
I have a TCI Shifter in my Duster and needed to loop the cable up and around the top of the bell housing and I used a small round steel clip and routed the cable through the clip and was able to drill a small pilot hole in the firewall and bolt the cable away from the headers. The first cable melted so I went this route. The shortest cable I could order was 4'. Used 3/8" fuel line tubing also to insulate the cable somewhat from the heat. So far, so good.
 
5 foot cable is typical, just insulate and keep it away from heat.

Here's some instructions for the B&M ratchet shifters for reference.

[ame="http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-80840%20&%2080842.pdf"]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-80840%20&%2080842.pdf[/ame]
 
bad,

I thought if i bought the 4 foot, it would be too short. Many thanks for the documentation. I had something that was much shorter. I think it is going to be crowded with the lokar cable down there.

DusterManic, how do you like your TCI ? I have one on my Mustang and initially, had a lot of problems with it. The dealer I bought it from in Ontario said I was lying ...there couldn't be a problem..and forwarded me on to the company. I didn't do the install with this one and my mechanic ended up doing trouble shooting with the company. Apparently, I had the first problem shifter that they had ever heard of...

ian.
 
Grommeted hole in the tunnel, like others have done, then looped across the front of the bellhousing. Wrapped in Thermo-tek sleeve.
 

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I ran mine through the floor/tunnel on the driver's side, almost beside the throttle, it curves along the top of the bellhousing and then connects to shift arm from the front (I have my cable mounted to a bracket bolted to the ear that sticks out of the side of the bell, where the bellcrank for a column shifter linkage would mount)




I'll get some pics from underneath sometime today for you.
 
I run a Quicksilver as well. The hole in the floor has to be directly ahead of the shifter, as the cable can't bend much in that short of a distance. After two burned cables I routed mine up over the bellhousing and back down and anchored it using the hole on the trans that the kickdown bell crank used to occupy. I am using a lokar kickdown. The cable is inside a silicone catalytic convertor hose with a DEI sleeve over it. So far no problems.


x2
 
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