My 66 Cuda water pump nightmare

-

lou3500

Fla. Cuda Guy
Joined
Apr 11, 2010
Messages
1,327
Reaction score
63
Location
Palm Harbor Fla.
Last Sunday I decided to attend a car cruise in just north of us in New Port Richey so I got up early and got ready to go, went out in my shop to connect the battery and found a puddle of water under the front of the car, the water pump let go finally [it's been seeping lately] so I disassembled everything and ordered a new pump from Rock Auto however the one they sent would not work with factory air [had an extra water outlet where the a/c compressor mounts] sent it back and got a remaned one from NAPA [limited lifetime war.], at the same time I find that the radiator is whooped so I look for a replacement [no fat tank rads available] just the 70s type ones and for a heafty price so I look at Champion radiator finally got the one that has the inlet/outlet on the drivers side [cc 1635-3 row] trying to keep from doing a lot of fab work, it arrived on Saturday in pretty good shape for how they pack them [slightly bent fins here and there] go put it in the car and the radiator support is two different levels drivers side is 3/4" farther back [factory stamping] than the passenger side, mount holes for the bottom are too low gotta drill new ones [I knew that when I ordered] but the radiator is setting back farther than the stock one and no room for shroud or fan, no room in front for electric fan due to the factory air condenser [I removed the condenser to test fit a fan no go]. So my idea of a fix is two 10" electric fans offset so that I can clear the water pump pulley [2 1/2" from pulley to core] so much for no fab work I sure hope that all of this works when I'm done. The only thing that I'm still figuring out is how to install the temp switch for the fans as far as I know I only have the hole for the sender to the temp gauge on the intake, I was gonna use a t fitting so both could be used in the same place [not like Chevrolet with places in the heads for those]. I was also asked if I was going to paint the radiator black I said no my plan is to skuff it with Scotch Brite for a brushed look to match the Mopar valve covers and air cleaner that's planned. I was hoping for this to be a low dollar fix [water pump wham bam fix it mam] but alas it has become a little more than that, but this is the first major expense this car has had in 6 years so I feel lucky.
 

Attachments

  • 102_3391.jpg
    70.8 KB · Views: 188
  • 102_3392.jpg
    130.9 KB · Views: 187
  • 102_3393.jpg
    83.2 KB · Views: 180
  • 102_3394.jpg
    45.6 KB · Views: 179
  • 102_3395.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 190
  • 102_3397.jpg
    91.7 KB · Views: 182
Your core support looks pretty tweaked, and by pretty tweaked I mean the driver's side appears to be pushed back at least 1" or more.
 
It's the photo I measured from the firewall to the support and it's fine, the core support is stamped from the factory with a 3/4 difference from driver to passenger side where the radiator mounts, the new radiator has both brackets mounted at the same distance. This radiator is for a 66 dart [hose inlet/outlet is what I needed] I think I have a fix for my issues.


as the photos clearly show the stamping is raised on the drivers side so I have to shim the other side to keep radiator even.
 

Attachments

  • 102_3394.jpg
    45.6 KB · Views: 167
  • 102_3395.jpg
    44.5 KB · Views: 147
Does your hood close ok? I thought that the Champion 1635 was taller than stock. I was told that a Champion 2375 was the better fit for a 66. The reason I ask is because I'm need a radiator for my 66 Dodge Dart. Thanks
 
I was quoted 450 dollars for a recore due to cost of copper right now. Champion radiator price is about 175 shipped directly to my door.
 
-
Back
Top