Home built rack and pinion+ coilover build.

I had some time to work on the conversion today, hear are a couple of photos of what I am up to. You can see the T shaped piece of angle iron I drape the tape measures across. The center tape is for setting the height for each measurement, and the T bar must be leveled every time before readings to get accurate results. The numbers need to be compared for toe in, toe out, and the total distance will change due to the arc of the suspension, even if the toe does not. So check both sides and record the difference at each inch of travel. I start where I figure it will be set for ride height, or about two inches of spindle travel from the bottom bump stop. I can then set the toe at zero at that point, to make the math simpler.
I have been doing the alignment on the front of my 8 second Dart for years, never had it on an alignment rack. It handles very well at 150 mph, so I am confident this is an ok system to use to set up a front end. On the race car, I use two pieces of 1/2 inch square tubing, 28 inches long, each strapped to the outside of the front tires six inches off the ground, leveled. I double check my numbers by moving the metal tubes a couple of times to make sure the measurements are consistent, and not on a high or low spot on the tire, which would skew the readings and throw the alignment off. Here it was easier to just make some T bars. For the full alignment, I bought a bolt on tool that has bubbles for setting caster and camber, after which I can then set the toe.
In the picture you can see the tape measure ends are duct taped to the other side of the hoist. I use one inch increments to graph out the toe in / toe out pattern, then make adjustments. Watch out for things that can mess up the measurements. Slack in the suspension, tapes not equally tight, anything that will allow a variance. I double checked my numbers a couple of times, and sure enough, found something loose.
If you look at the steering arm, it is just a throw together deal to get the dimensions of the steering arms. Once I find out where the tie rod end goes in height and length, and figure out the proper tie rod length, I can then fabricate the arms. I may make them adjustable by using a bolt together design, not sure yet. It would really simplify any needed adjustments down the road.
In the bottom picture you can see the 5/16 bolt through the stub of the old steering arm, which is bolted to the new plates that are in turn bolted to the back side of the spindle.