tekslk
Well-Known Member
I ws just thinking the other night and wondering why are all the steel brake lines cureled where they go up to the master cyl?
Stupid question on brake line.
- Thread starter tekslk
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To minimize the effect of vibration on the lines where they are held ridgid.
tekslk
Well-Known Member
If you were making your own would you have to have that curlin there?
Yes I would. Also makes it look more original.
I would certainly put it in there. They are there to absorb vibration as mentioned. You can use a piece of pipe to wrap the line around to form the loop.
The coiled lines below the master cylinder are for fluid cooling.
One of the most effective tubing benders is a tightly wound spring like coil slid over the tubing. The factories use that, stretch it out and leave it there to enhance the heat dissipation.
One of the most effective tubing benders is a tightly wound spring like coil slid over the tubing. The factories use that, stretch it out and leave it there to enhance the heat dissipation.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
They are there to make it more of a pain in the *** to bleed the brakes. 
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I also wondered if the curls are needed. I have also heard the anti-vibration theory, but the MC position shouldn't move relative to the body, and they don't curl it other places along the body. Maybe it was to quicken assembly. I wouldn't go out of my way to bend the tubes. In my old Mopars, I made brake lines off the MC from junkyard Intrepid tubes which have a flexible stainless braided section. That makes it easy to move the MC in the future with tubes connected. BTW, "metric" 6 mm brake tubing w/ bubble flare fittings is still 3/16"D (or close enough), so you can cut off the bubble ends and double flare the tube.
A similar question is why the tubes near the outer corners have a wire wrap. I used to think it was to protect from road debris. Then I heard it was an assembly aid so the factory guys could bend the tubes by hand without kinking, just like temporary spring tube benders you can buy. They just left the wire on, which mainly serves to trap road salt and hasten corrosion.
A similar question is why the tubes near the outer corners have a wire wrap. I used to think it was to protect from road debris. Then I heard it was an assembly aid so the factory guys could bend the tubes by hand without kinking, just like temporary spring tube benders you can buy. They just left the wire on, which mainly serves to trap road salt and hasten corrosion.
The springs on the brake lines is called armor. You'll find it in areas where it is more exposed to damage whether from road debris or routing (between a frame and body, close proximity to moving parts, et al...)
The reason you have coils by the master cylinder is for flex and vibration. The lines are made out of steel and will work harden over time with flex and vibration. It's more cost effective for a manufacturer to make a line with a few coils in it than it is to make an entirely separate flexible hose. Yes, our cars move like living animals. Watch your master cylinder while having someone step on the brake pedal. How many times do you step on that pedal during the day? Add in body flex and twist and you get the idea.
Some cars do it more than others. When I build custom lines, I tend to forgo the coils. Most of the cars in our hobby don't get the long term DD duty they were originally intended for anymore, so I lean towards eye candy when I do them now. (I still try to put some stress relieving bends in more hidden areas).
The reason you have coils by the master cylinder is for flex and vibration. The lines are made out of steel and will work harden over time with flex and vibration. It's more cost effective for a manufacturer to make a line with a few coils in it than it is to make an entirely separate flexible hose. Yes, our cars move like living animals. Watch your master cylinder while having someone step on the brake pedal. How many times do you step on that pedal during the day? Add in body flex and twist and you get the idea.
Some cars do it more than others. When I build custom lines, I tend to forgo the coils. Most of the cars in our hobby don't get the long term DD duty they were originally intended for anymore, so I lean towards eye candy when I do them now. (I still try to put some stress relieving bends in more hidden areas).
I had an oil press line brake on me, right at the sending unit. I made the line for the new press gage, and did not put a coil in it, close to the gage. You want to know where it snapped,??. You guessed it real close to the sending unit, from engine vibration. What a mess, oil all over the place. I made a new line, and put a coil in it and it has been that way for years now. As for me, In believe in the coils. They also reduce fluid surge.
barracudadave67
barracudadave67
tekslk
Well-Known Member
I thought this was a stupid question but I guess there is a purpose for just about everything.
It takes only one coil to stop resonating vibration. Other configurations work too.
In the textile mill where vibration would crack long runs of pvc pipe , four 90 degree fittings in a U like configuration worked fine. The engineer I worked with said, " If this plabt shakes enough to crack that joint...RUN!"
So why are there several coils located nowhere other than beneath the master cylinder ? Cause a bunch are purdier than one I guess.
Just bend the little thingy . I'm out
In the textile mill where vibration would crack long runs of pvc pipe , four 90 degree fittings in a U like configuration worked fine. The engineer I worked with said, " If this plabt shakes enough to crack that joint...RUN!"
So why are there several coils located nowhere other than beneath the master cylinder ? Cause a bunch are purdier than one I guess.
Just bend the little thingy . I'm out
tekslk
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone.
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