Home built rack and pinion+ coilover build.

Some more pictures. I got the bump steer within reason for most of the travel. The unequal length A arms create some dificultys, so the Toe goes in at top and bottom of travel, but is very good in the middle. It took a long time to get this far, mainly because I missed a variable while testing and it threw my numbers all over the place and cost a lot of time. The measurements need to be made with a jack pushing up on the bottom of the control arm to simulate a load from where it will be during use. Trying to lift the suspension by the spindle allows the slop in the lower ball joints to move around. Also it is a good idea to measure where the bump stops hit, and don't take any readings with the suspension touching either.
The end result had me scratching my head to figure out how to move the brake rotors out far enough. I looked at my Wilwood kit and by flipping the brackets for the calipers around, and juggling the way the rotors attach to the hub I can move them out 1.2 inches, VERY close to the 18 inch wheels I have with 6.3 inch back space. I also have a 3/16 wheel spacer in between the wheel and hub, which will be needed to clear the calipers in their new location. The tie rod end needs to be WAY out there, and the move of the rotors will allow a good tie rod length for proper bump steer. I would like to go longer on the tie rod length, but it just isn't possible to put it out that far. If the wheel base is wider on the later A bodys, they will have a much easier time of it. Same for a B body or E body car. With the narrow A body wheel base, the end result is the outer tie rod ends need to be farther out than where they should be for correct ackerman angle. It isn't rel bad, just more than I would like to see.
To be clear on this- if you can't or don't want to move the brake parts around, there is only one solution. The lower control arm must be shorter. That would then require a whole different K frame , mounting position, and loss of the use of stock parts for most of this conversion. EDIT; You could run a narrower rack, and it would work. But Ackerman will probably be off some due to the lack of room for tie rod length.
So a quick recap- This conversion will need disc brakes that have a very shallow offset from the hub to clear the tie rod position. The wheels will probably need to be seventeen inchers or bigger to clear the tie rod ends. Here are a couple of photos of my stuff for tonight. If you look at the last photo, consider how far out board the tie rod is in relation to where the bolt heads for the lower ball joints are. The only way to keep the bump steer from going crazy is to have either that tie rod end way out there, or buy a three or four inch shorter rack and pinion setup.