SBP drums to SBP disc parts list

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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Hello everyone. I am trying to determine what else I would need if I bought these parts from this thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=249438

I have a 70 dart Swinger with complete drum brakes all around (9in up front, 10in rear)

I already have SBP so I won't need the upper arms.

Things I will need:

New calipers (will any other "make" work or do I have to search for actual replacements?)

Soft Brake lines (do I search for make and model with disc for these?)

Master Cylinder? (Currently have drum all around)

Proportioning valve? (do I search for make and model with disc for this)

Ball joints, and control arm bushings, and shocks since I'm going to be in there anyway.

Is there anything that I'm missing?

Thanks in advance!!

-Mike
 
All said and done .... by the time you are done .. plan on spending $800-1000... Been there .. done that ..
Better off switching to big bolt pattern ... OR try the SCAREBIRD way... guys swear by that upgrade and not as expensive !
 
rrvolare said:
All said and done .... by the time you are done .. plan on spending $800-1000... Been there .. done that ..
Better off switching to big bolt pattern ... OR try the SCAREBIRD way... guys swear by that upgrade and not as expensive !
Click to expand...

Why do you say 800 - 1000? His parts are $400 shipped. It can't be another 4-600 for the remaining parts, unless I'm missing something.

I don't mind the SBP, I like my current wheels and if I decide to swap I already have some picked out.
 
800-1000 by the time your are done ... including used parts he is buying ... TRUST me i did the same conversion ... calipers , balljoints , flex hoses , flex hose brackets ..brake lines, inline proportioning valve etc... .. SH*& is not cheap ...
IF i had to do it again .. i would either convert to BBP or change the steelies to a rim that would not contact 4 piston calipers ...
 
I am doing the same conversion on my 66 now, I got hoses,pads, and caliper rebuild kits from NAPA, and rotors from rock auto http://www.rockauto.com/
I am rebuilding my calipers, but they also have the rebuilt ones for $50 with a $75 core charge, the set you have linked includes cores, so you will be fine, so far I have just under $150 in new parts, plus what i payed when I bought the complete take off set up last year,
a quick break down on prices
pads $10 from NAPA
flex lines $15 a piece from NAPA
caliper rebuild kits $18 each from NAPA
 
caferacerx said:
I am doing the same conversion on my 66 now, I got hoses,pads, and caliper rebuild kits from NAPA, and rotors from rock auto http://www.rockauto.com/
I am rebuilding my calipers, but they also have the rebuilt ones for $50 with a $75 core charge, the set you have linked includes cores, so you will be fine, so far I have just under $150 in new parts, plus what i payed when I bought the complete take off set up last year,
a quick break down on prices
pads $10 from NAPA
flex lines $15 a piece from NAPA
caliper rebuild kits $18 each from NAPA
Click to expand...

Yea I saw that too. Rock auto has em also. The only thing he doesn't have is the lower ball joint bolt. Can I get this at the hardware store or is it a special bolt?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Yea I saw that too. Rock auto has em also. The only thing he doesn't have is the lower ball joint bolt. Can I get this at the hardware store or is it a special bolt?
Click to expand...

If you can come up with the ball joint bolts you can get the rebuilt parts listed above and be in to these right. I have done several rebuilds and never spent $400 on parts that were brake related.

Here is some other good information.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=243492&highlight=drill+ball+joints
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
If you can come up with the ball joint bolts you can get the rebuilt parts listed above and be in to these right. I have done several rebuilds and never spent $400 on parts that were brake related.

Here is some other good information.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=243492&highlight=drill+ball+joints
Click to expand...


Well it looks like I will have everything with the parts in the thread except:

Calipers
Hoses
Proportioning valve
Master Cyl

I'm still wondering if I can just go to the hardware store to buy the lower ball joint bolts??
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Well it looks like I will have everything with the parts in the thread except:

Calipers
Hoses
Proportioning valve
Master Cyl

I'm still wondering if I can just go to the hardware store to buy the lower ball joint bolts??
Click to expand...

Hemi71x should be able to tell you that for sure. I looked on the forum last night and the only bolts people have been hunting is for the 73 up so either no one has needed any or what is available down town works.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Hemi71x should be able to tell you that for sure. I looked on the forum last night and the only bolts people have been hunting is for the 73 up so either no one has needed any or what is available down town works.
Click to expand...

Just in case anyone was curious. You can purchase the bolts for the lower ball joints from your favorite parts store. The size is 9/16-18 X 2"

Fastenal has them for $1.83 a piece.
 
Well here is an update...

The sale fell through. I just couldn't stomach paying $400 for the parts plus having to buy calipers. pads, lCA etc.

Anyway decided to go the Scarebird route. Got the brackets, Rotors, Calipers, lines, pads and I'm in it for $260 :D

Now I just need to Source the master and possibly a proportioning valve.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Well here is an update...

The sale fell through. I just couldn't stomach paying $400 for the parts plus having to buy calipers. pads, lCA etc.

Anyway decided to go the Scarebird route. Got the brackets, Rotors, Calipers, lines, pads and I'm in it for $260 :D

Now I just need to Source the master and possibly a proportioning valve.
Click to expand...

So how are things coming along? I am interested in what you have done 'cause I want to do the same thing to my 70 Dart. Are you using discs yet? I have tried numerous times to contact Scarebird with no success.
 
bighammer said:
So how are things coming along? I am interested in what you have done 'cause I want to do the same thing to my 70 Dart. Are you using discs yet? I have tried numerous times to contact Scarebird with no success.
Click to expand...

I went with the scarebird setup, and have almost everything together. I still need to purchase a master cylinder. Will hopefully have it done this weekend.

Are you sure you're using the correct email? I emailed him 2 days ago about the install, expecting a response the next day(it was 8pm) and he emailed back right away. He is however very short in his email so keep it simple, but ask as many questions as you need to.

I will post back my results soon.
 
"I will post back my results soon"

Man, that would be great! I would really love to see your summary of this swap, and what all scarebird supplies and what you needs to purchase locally. Subscribed...
 
bighammer said:
"I will post back my results soon"

Man, that would be great! I would really love to see your summary of this swap, and what all scarebird supplies and what you needs to purchase locally. Subscribed...
Click to expand...

I will definately write something up. I will try to add part numbers of the things I bought also.
 
Updates:

I haven't yet installed the master or bled the brakes, but everything else is done, and its a nice fit.

So here is what I did. Other's experience may vary.

1. Remove drum from Spindle. (Cotter pin, axle nut)
2. Remove backing plate from Spindle. (4 bolts through the backing plate to spindle)
3. Clean the spindle as best you can.

4. Remove Drum from hub.
This part can vary, depending on if your studs are swedged onto the drum, mine were.

After calling around to local machine and brake shops, no one had the appropriate swedge cutter. So I took the assembly to Midas, and had the guy use a die grider and cut as close to the drum as he could with out damaging it, this effectively took enough of the swedge off the stud, to where we could could seperate the two. Then he cut the rest of the lugs below the grinded area and pressed them out of the hub. This only took him about 20 mins, and he only charged me $20.

5. Get Rotors re drilled to 5 on 4" bolt circle, or you can purchase pre-drilled ones from Scarebird ($125). I had mine re-drilled. ($60)

6.With the Hubs seperated from the Drums, I cleaned all the old grease out and installed new lug studs, easy to do with the new lug nuts and some washers.

7. Repacked new wheel bearings and installed new seals and races.

8. Bolted on Scarebird adapters with the existing (4) bolts used for the backing plate, with the caliper bracket facing forward. The kit also comes with 2 metal rings, these are not mentioned in the instructions, but are meant to center the rotor on the hub.
They go around the hub on the rotor side. To install I just used a drift punch and a ball peen hammer, and gently tapped it around until it sat flush on the hub.

9. Bolted the rotor onto the hub with 3 lug nuts.

10. Installed Hub/rotor onto Spindle.

11. Next was fitting the Calipers, which was by far the most work, not hard though. Calipers may vary, but I had to grind off a nub that was interfering with the spindle, this didn't affect the integrity of the caliper.

12. Once I got a good fit, I installed the pads and Caliper onto the Scarebird adapter over the rotor.

14. The brake hoses were next. Bolt onto the caliper first, then to the existing metal line.

15. Bench bleed new master and install. (Haven't done yet)

16. Bleed brakes (Haven't done yet)

Take for test Drive. (Haven't done yet)


Parts list:

Scarebird Adapters: $121 shipped

1994 Toyota Previa Van front rotors x2 WAGNER BD125058

1991 Chevy Celebrity Front Calipers x2 (I got at local O'reillys A1 Cardone) PN will vary depending on brand)

1991 Chevy Celebrity Front brake pads WAGNER ZX215

1984 Cadillac Eldarado brake lines RAYBESTOS BH36959
RAYBESTOS BH36960

1973 Dodge Dart Master Cylinder 1 1/32" Bore (A 15/16" Bore is what most people go with, but I think the pedal will be ok on this one.)

(I chose this route, for the ease of installation and the price, you can use Dr. Diff's master and adapter, etc.)

Lugs and nuts: DORMAN 611160 (10)
DORMAN 610156 (10)



That should be it. Feel free to ask me questions, if you are not clear on something.

I will post back once I get it on the road.
 
Any master cylinder you can bolt to the firewall should work, if the brake rod fits in the piston. I used a 2-4 bolt adapter plate and a newish 2-bolt alum MC in all my old Mopars (95-99 Breeze ABS, 7/8"D bore). An adjustable proportioning valve is best and cheapest ($28 ebay).

In the original SPB disk question, I didn't see spindles listed. That is the hardest part to get since must be factory, i.e. from an old car.
 
Bill from what i read here in the conversion you use the old drum brake spindle. These are not old disk spindles the whole point of this converison.
 
Correct. You use your drum brake spindles 9" or 10" with the Scarebird kit, just be sure to order the correct adapters for your spindles.
 
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