Late A headers on an early A (smallblock)

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breakstuff

breakstuff

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Has anyone ever attempted it? Where exactly are the tight or didn't fit spots?
 
Headers on a Early a body barracuda 64-66 for instance is difficult and very tight fit! I have seen some done where they cut the side out to make them fit or custom to go around the drive shaft on one side and bent on the other side to fit. Reality is most small block motors do not need headers unless you are going over the top drag racing and high end horsepower. I had my 66 prior to its being run into by a fool, running 12 second quarter mile on well fitting and slightly worked normal exhaust, just set up as dual pipes that had good flowing mufflers. Its all in the motor not whats going out, my current 65 formula S is set up the same way, just not quite as fast yet! It doesn't have the head work yet and cam set up! It runs 15.0 on the button as it is just a street driver and fun car! 318 4bbl but someday I will go for it down the road, its just money!! I need to do body and paint first to finish the resto. Then back to gogogogogogogogogogogo!
 
dougs, tti, hooker and sanderson all make headers for the early a-body. they are not cheap no mater how you go about it. headers on any engine are going to make more hp then the factory v8 manifolds.
 
I think there was a thread a few years back about somebody using typical 1 5/8" 67-up headers in and early A. If I remember right, the left side hit pretty much everything and the right side hit the steering. The short of it was, yes, with enough bashing, bending and tweaking they can be made to work. And, if your time is worth anything, try something else...
 
I'm cutting my inner fenders out and relocating my shock mounts lower and further out and tying them into the front J bars of my cage. Eventually I'm going RB power but I have this 360 I'm dying to frag and a set of hooker comp I'm willing to cut up.

Torsion bars an issue?
 
65cudalover said:
Reality is most small block motors do not need headers unless you are going over the top drag racing and high end horsepower. I had my 66 prior to its being run into by a fool, running 12 second quarter mile on well fitting and slightly worked normal exhaust, just set up as dual pipes that had good flowing mufflers. Its all in the motor not whats going out.
Click to expand...

I do agree with some of this but not all. I good set of cast iron logs worked over will be more than enough for your 318 with little mods to the engine. Now if your talking about a 340 on up with a decent cam, intake, bigger carb, lightly worked over heads then your going to need some sort of header.

Remember most engines from the factory are choked up at the intake and exhaust for low rpm performance that's ideal for a factory street performance car. When you add a bigger carb and intake, your trying to cram more air into an engine that can't exhale well because of the factory exhaust. Now you'll need to add headers and a larger exhaust pipe to allow the engine to exhale the extra air your trying to make the engine breathe in.
 
I used cheapo headers to make them fit. The ones with the 3 tubes hanging below the steering linkage. One tube on the drivers side will have to be cut out as it runs directly into the steering box and can be rerouted, oh ya forget power steering. On the passenger side, the body is in the way by a 1/4 of an inch so some slight massaging will need to be done on the 4 tubes there and there is one tube below that hits the drag link that will have to be moved over for clearance, I also put 1/4 inch shims under my motor mounts to raise the engine up slightly to help as well. I wish I would of taken some pics back then (mid 70's) and is was on a 66 Canadian valiant that I put a 340 in. with 727 8 3/4 all out of a 70 Duster that had rolled.

But it can be done....
 
If u have the time, patience, n skill then its worth the effort to make something work rather than getting expensive headers.
 
I bought a used set of Hooker Super Competition adjustable, fenderwell headers with 1 7/8 tubes that came of a 1970 Baracuda 340 car, they fit my 340/65 Dart combo. Of course you have to cut the holes for them though!
 
71Scamper said:
I do agree with some of this but not all. I good set of cast iron logs worked over will be more than enough for your 318 with little mods to the engine.
Click to expand...


Huh? who said anything about a 318 with little mods?
 
gregsdart said:
I bought a used set of Hooker Super Competition adjustable, fenderwell headers with 1 7/8 tubes that came of a 1970 Baracuda 340 car, they fit my 340/65 Dart combo. Of course you have to cut the holes for them though!
Click to expand...


I may check into that, I removed my inner fenderwells.
 
Just some info I saved, don't know if
it helps any.
Just getting it out there so it can be found again.
 

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breakstuff said:
Huh? who said anything about a 318 with little mods?
Click to expand...

That was directed at the second poster, not you.

longarm said:
Just some info I saved, don't know if
it helps any.
Just getting it out there so it can be found again.
Click to expand...

Appreciated but again, you can put the largest exhaust you want on a car but if you don't do any mods to intake side of the engine it cannot breath in more to expel more. The graph only shows changes made to the exhaust but nothing to the intake side of things. You need to make equal changes to both intake and exhaust to really see a difference.
 
If memory serves, all of the exhaust manifolds
and headers in the chart were tested on the same
engine with no other changes .
It was done to determine the flow characteristics
and power potential, not really to promote any engine build.
At least you would have a benchmark/baseline to help make an informed decision.
Might be helpful to someone reading this thread in determining what they could use, maybe not to others.

Hope you can find a header that will meet your needs without too
much modification and expense.
 
dual exhaust with the stock 273 manifolds will work pretty good;
with the least amount of work.

If your going Racing that is not going to make as much
extra power as you want. ;)

I built a 318 and used the 273 manifolds worked good for me.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU"]1964 Valiant dual exhaust - YouTube[/ame]
 
If near you, there is a place in South San Francisco that made custom headers for an early A I saw at a car show this summer. I recall ~$1400 total and might have been the entire exhaust. I recall he even had power steering. I posted the name of the place ~July. Have their card somewhere. But you would probably have to leave your car.
 
I am thinkin you should use early a body headers on a early a body. I don't know what it is, but something about that just makes sense.
 
Just buy proper headers they only seem overpriced becuase they only sell quality headers for early a bodies which are similar price as other quality header for any other car.
 
Ok once again as the original post goes.
Where are the tight spots using a late headers on an early A? My car has a 12 point cage and no inner fenders so I have some extra real estate. I already have a set of SB A body headers, a chop saw and a welder so moving some tubes is no big deal, I just wanted a bit of info before I attempt it. The 360 I want to kill needs to breath through something a little larger than manifolds and once the 360 is dead, an RB motor will be taking it's place. So if you have condescending remarks, Oh i don't know what it is but it makes sense to keep your comments to yourself.
 
So the steering box one tube runs directly into it, and the drag link on the passenger side of the car, one tube will hit real bad and the other by 1/2 an inch. As I remember, it was almost 30 years ago.
 
I think the tight spots are the same regardless of what headers you try in an early A. I chopped up later headers, Headman Hustlers and made it work. Steering linkage, column, PS(not), starter, oil filter, master cyl, and a 727 had to be cleared... or moved. Mini starter, remote oil filter helps. The R/F corner of the 727 pan/case is also a concern. So is the dip stick. You don't have fender wells, so this may be a bunk point. Cross member for trans is one sided.... If you want to fab it all and recycle some other parts and have the means go for it. If you need to bolt and go, get out the check book and buy the ones that fit..supposedly. JMO
Larry :D
check out this thread,
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=242582
This too!
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=256912
Search all you can here @ FABO, It's all there. That's why I built mine.
 
LMAO 64ragtop, That signature

There's a 340 Duster and a 340 4 speed 70 clone in my garage and the butchered up 65 Dart is by far favorite. EDD really is an on going issue, I'm thinking buying another one.
 
I come from a little different school of thought than many that have posted on this thread. When you build a car there are always budget constraints. You have to prioritize where you spend your money. There are areas where you may need to be cost conscious. But, there are also certain areas where you shouldn't compromise. To me, installing headers in a tight engine bay in an early A body definitely falls into the latter category.

I went the TTI route and have never looked back. Sure they are relatively expensive but you really do get what you pay for. Besides, we're really only talking a few hundred dollars here, money well spent in my opinion. They fit perfectly without any modification, dimpling or re-routing. They clear everything, don't burn wires and perform great. Even though I've done my share of fabrication and modification there is no way I can build a better header, accounting for research, time and materials, for the same money. Also, factor in that when you cut up or dimple headers to make them fit you impede performance. Each weld or dimple can cause turbulence and decrease gas flow. The same goes for sharp corners and bends.

My advice, for what it's worth, is don't try and re-invent the wheel. Spend the money and buy a good, quality header with a proven track record. Scrimp and save in other areas but not here.
 
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