The truth about caltracs
Hi All.
We've ran Caltracs for 13 years and with 3 different engine combo's (soon to be 4) we've been through a lot of what everyones mentioning.
OK from the beginning, we expected to run quicker with them straight away but didn't over the old superstock springs and snubber system. The car was much more consistant and drove nicer up the track this was with an 11sec 440 motor (550hp at 3800lb). Since we are bracket racers it was fine. 60fts were in the hi 1.5 lo 1.6 range.
Next combo was a 528 Iron motor indy heads. This eventually got down to 10.00's initially it was in the lo 11's. Here we discovered it was hitting the tyre hard, lots of seperation. Tightening the rancho to max helped as did tubes in the slicks and more pressure. Altering preload didn't seem to help. We had to change both sides the same if we did, as it would drive to one side or the other. We also started looking at the front, slowing the rise at the front helped a lot, c/e three ways were set at 60/40.
We started to get the "porpoising" problems when we got a handle on the engine tune and started to go quicker. A smaller higher stall converter gave us 4 tenths and showed up the problem more. We needed more pressure in the tyre and more front travel. 60fts in the mid 1.45's
By now we had the 572 motor in and we are running hi 9's we've altered the front suspension to give us as much travel as possible and were are running a 29inch front tyre to get the ride height back. We are now doing the odd massive wheelie (175ft) and always pulling the wheels at least 2ft. 60fts are 1.40 with a best of 1.37 (good air). A couple of seasons ago we fitted afco d/a's dynamic strut rods and tubula uca's with heim joints, the lower stock arms are boxed. Also fitted travel limiters. We can now control the hit on the tyre using the front. Car is really consistent we've gone a best of 9.57 and 142.
The setup is still hitting the tyre a little too hard in my opinion so for next season we've gone for afco d/a's and an anti roll bar on the rear to help since we are putting in a 655ci motor. Car is getting all the stuff to run in the 8's and 150mph + but we're keeping the caltracs
HTH's
Sorry I was hard on all those that run Cal Tracs.Last year was very frustrating. I wish I left the car alone (SS springs/snubber).
With all due respect,I finally came to the conclusion if you are determinded to make them work,it is going to take much more hardware then what Calvert sells you. In my opinion it takes sliders, Afco shocks,tubes, more rear tire pressure, as much front end travel you can get, and leave soft as you can.Adapting longer mono leafs will help a whole bunch too.
Now this is fine if you want to stay leaf springs. But the bottom line is, for what all this costs (including the Cal Tracs themselves) you can ladder bar a car, and it's going to work better straight away.
My issue is, I was under the impression they worked pretty good out of the box, and better then SS springs with a snubber. They didn't. I was racing seriously for Summit series points, and other then 1 day of TT's there was no other time to mess with them.They are going to take work, I admit that now.I can see you can more or less make them work.
If you are one that wants to go play with your car, and just have fun seeing how fast you can go on leaf springs, they are for you. If you want a consistant car right of the box, and don't want to fiddle with it, stay with the SS springs and snubber. If you want to go serious racing, back half it, or atleast ladder bar and mini tub it.
I decided to take a short cut myself.The Valiant is for sale if you want to go Cal Trac Racing.
