Home built rack and pinion+ coilover build.

I put in the narrowed rack, and it helped get the bump steer real close, like zero for four inches of travel. The problem is, the fat Mustang tie rod ends won't clear the Wilwood street brakes at the proper tie rod length, so I am going to a race type high angularity rod end kit, probably from ART. I didn't want to run rod ends, but to get perfect (or very, very close) bump steer and Ackerman that is real close, it has become a necessity. The rod ends will be right up against the rotors, within 1/8 inch. It looks like the Ackerman will be a touch less than stock. I want it to be about 75 to 90 percent of what it should be, but never more, which works out perfect with the 5.125 inch narrowed rack I put in. Bump steer is best if it toes out a touch at the upper and lower limits of travel, (extra long tie rod) not good to have it toe in. If the car toes in , then in a hard turn the car turns more than the steering input, not a good deal. A slight toe out is preferred by Herb Adams, The Chassis book. When I say toe out, I will tolerate and extra 1/8 to 3/16 inch at the ends of travel, on the bump part of travel (outside tire in a hard turn). The tie rod ends need to be about 4.5 inch (maybe a bit longer) from the ball joint center for correct turning radius. They will be about three inch below a line through the control arm bolts, depending on your rack placement. The distance from the center of the ball joint (a front rear parallel line)will be out about 1 inch outboard for 100 percent Ackerman, I can get to about 3/4 inch. I hope this helps. I have to put this whole project on hold for a long time, but will resurrect it when I install the whole deal next summer. Feel free to email if you have questions about what I have done. Greg
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