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Did my own with some machined aluminum bushings and pipe.
I used torch heat and force from my front end loader to straighten it. (Oh the horror!)
I kept the bushing tolerances tight and at the end the pipe spun with no resistance.
Now tell me that it is not straight. :)
 
Bad Sport said:
I certainly agree that using a jig is the "correct" way to do it. Unfortunately not everyone has one so we have to improvise.
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I`m sure the "backyard way" of doing it works just fine if you are on a tight budget and is close enough to not chew bearings or tires but in 2013 there are better more accurate ways of doing it, just costs a little more. I forget exactly how much my last one cost but it was somewhere around $500 which included buying the parts car for $75, having the housing narrowed and spring perches moved and sending the axles to Moser. I just wish I could find another $75 wagon parts car now!!
 
You shadetree do it yourself guys, are you reusing the housing ends? Are you butt welding the housing ends on or lapp welding them?
 
mischiefdart said:
You shadetree do it yourself guys, are you reusing the housing ends? Are you butt welding the housing ends on or lapp welding them?
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Shadetree?Really? Cant you read? no,we are glueing them on with jb weld and having budda bless them...lmfao
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
how did ole grand pappy do it 30 years ago?... just saying the pros learned from someone....
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Umpteen ways to do anything, only one way to do it right......

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mischiefdart said:
You shadetree do it yourself guys, are you reusing the housing ends? Are you butt welding the housing ends on or lapp welding them?
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Butt
 
Nothing wrong with butt welding, just chamfer both pieces.
 
Did I insult you or something rbdart? You could have at least answered the question I asked instead of insulting me. I have a machine shop and was considering building a jig to do it as professionally as possible. Thank you for your input supershafts and anyone else who has something constructive to say.
 
Nope I aint insulted but using the word 'shadetree' might not be advisable, and if you go back and read my posts I explained how I done it using the ends that were cut-off and having them turned down inside to 3'' so they would go back on the same tubes they were cut-off of thus avoiding 'butt welds' and makes it easier to line everything up and weld,you just tap them on in place over the tube,you want it tight not loose...etc..etc..I'm fine..
 
Shadetree/backyard mechanic shouldn`t be always taken as an insult although it could be used for that.
 
Idaho said:
Did my own with some machined aluminum bushings and pipe.
I used torch heat and force from my front end loader to straighten it. (Oh the horror!)
I kept the bushing tolerances tight and at the end the pipe spun with no resistance.
Now tell me that it is not straight. :)
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This is how I do it also. Infact this is also how a heap of shops do it as well. But I will say I don't use the front end loader :)
NOTHING is going to be more accurate than a straight bar or pipe though the carrier, when it comes to setting the axle bearing ends. When you relase a housing from a jig that is under stress it can still move. Most shops will only use a jig when it comes to setting multiple linkages or spring mounts on the tubes. Not necessary with leaf spring mounts.
People like to throw the word " Jig" about with diffs so they can sound like a pro, but fact is that the real "pro's" know to build them with a simple bar, bushings and some talent.
 
mischiefdart said:
You shadetree do it yourself guys, are you reusing the housing ends? Are you butt welding the housing ends on or lapp welding them?
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The tube ends were chamfered and butt welded with a mig. The tube to housing joint was tig welded to eliminate the known possibility to spin the tube in the housing (8.8 diff).
 

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