bogging 318

:glasses7:So it seems to have been sorted out.....

The new carb was missing an ultra light spring and baffle located inside the top of the vent bowl cap, which seems to regulate plunger pressure. These were not in the book and I was unaware that they were used. So I removed the old vent cap assembly with the plunger from the old carb and placed it in the new one and it seems to be working fine,
That is 2 long even streams with quick full throttle movement (1.5 sec)
and,2 short even streams with slow throttle movement (4.5 sec)
I am able to hold the brake and apply any amount of throttle at any rate without the bog and I'm breaking the wheels free.

So here is how it lays out,
To have your car running with stock parts,

1 - Be sure the ballast resister is not cracked and the coil is good
2 - Replace wires, plugs, and cap if needed
3 - Be sure there is little to no slack in the timing chain
4 - Use new distributer, but inspect for correct settings
5 - Use rebuild kit on old carb or replace and set to required bench settings

This should allow the car to start and continue with adjustments

6 - Check timing to be sure it is in a useable range to start,
Cold engine 10-15 degrees timing at 1200rpm with closed choke on fast idle cam
7 - Allow the car to warm up and maintain the idle using the curb idle screw on the fast idle cam
8 - at this point remove the idle advance vacuum from the carb and attach a vacuum gauge, also attach an rpm gauge if needed as well as a timing light.
9 - Set the rpm to 750rpm using the curb idle screw with no fast idle cam and the choke now open and engine warm
10 - Set the initial timing about 12 degrees advanced on average, this will cause the idle to increase
11 - back off on the curb idle screw to bring it back to 750 rpm and confirm timing, this may take 2 or 3 attempts to get 12 degrees at 750 rpm
12 - now you can begin to adjust the air to fuel ratio to a point of max fuel with no smoke, this should smell a little rich and have minor moisture coming out of the exhaust pipes this will be about 3-7 turns out on average depending on gas quality and port size
13 - at this point you can determine weather you have enough vacuum at idle for the brake booster, about 22hg. if it is low increase the curb idle screw and reset the timing to maintain the 750rpm until you reach enough vacuum
14 - Now if the car seems to be running clean (no smoke) and not smell to lean, then listen for any unwanted noise and watch for any odd vibration, and if all seems ok it is time for a test drive to listed for valve pings.
15 - If there is no pinging during acceleration or at high rpm then all is good and you may be able to add more timing and you are good to go.


So with these 15 steps and the initial information throughout this thread,
I hope this will help anyone else in the future:D
Thank you for all your help to those replied:happy1: