67 Convertible Top Switch

pyrojim said

So, I add a secondary power feed to the switch? There is only one feed now, red with tracer. It comes off the post, into the circuit breaker, routes back up to the switch. But if that now feeds the relays, I need a low amp secondary feed to the switch? From the accessory position on the fuse block??? Wjajr, where did you mount the relays? Under the dash? Sorry for my ignorance but I really want to get this right!

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I'm not home right now or I'd get pictures for ya. but yes ,just use a smaller gauge wire from the fuse box to the switch. That's enough to trigger the higher amp relay wiring.
I used 2 Bosch (I think they were 50 amp or so)relays to help save the switch. and just used lower power wire fused (15 amp or less needed) at the fuse box wire to power the switch that triggers the relays. I think of them as 2 separate circuits connected together in the relay like contactors for stoves and such. it takes a 110v wire from the switch and when you flip that switch (top switch)it sends power to the contactors (relays)that then activates and allows the 220v to go to the heating elements. Of course the stove only heats UP so I hadda think 2:D to get the DOWN.

you can take (I did) "Daniel Stern" lighting wiring diagram and substitute the high beam wiring as UP and low beam wiring as DOWN. and if I need 2 speed fans for the radiators I'm relaying them the same way but moving everything to an enclosure to make it neater.

I take the main large diameter(fused by maxi amp fuses in the engine compartment.) gauge power to the relays(mine are in the kick panel by the connector,but they could also be under the dash on the drivers side by extending the large gauge wire up to the dash). I have mine setup as fused full time power versus keyed power. I want to be able to raise and lower the top without having to start the car.