Does this look correct

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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I finally got my scarebird disc brake conversion done on the fronts, and I rebuilt the rear 10" drums, replaced master with a disc/drum from a 73+ dart 1 1/32 bore, but still have a spongy pedal that travels quite aways.

I bled the master before I installed, also bled the system twice, and I get the same pedal feel. I adjusted the rear brakes also, not sure if maybe they need more adjusting, the wheels have some resistance when turning. Things I have observed:

1. No fluid appears to be leaking anywhere.
2. I can pump the pedal all day long and I get the same feel
3. Does having a suregrip affect the "feel" of the wheel, when turning? In other words when adjusting rear brakes should the driveline be disconnected?
Do the shoe/spring/wheel cylinder install look correct?





Thanks again for all the help. I really want to figure this out on my own and not have to take it to a shop, just not sure where to go from here.
 
Think it's called an "anchor" Yes, it's upside down , and the strut spring end, could be tucked behind the front shoe..
 
Yes it is upside down, and the spring on the parking brake arm should be behind the shoe. This keeps the arm sprung upward away from the axle. Also squeeze the top springs when you are done. This keeps them from spreading more and possibly coming off when they get warm.
 
briankaplan said:
Upside down, but it won't cause a spongy pedal. How did they all bleed? Calipers installed correctly? Bleeder up?
Click to expand...

They all bled great, fluid came right out of the bleeders. I have a vacuum tool that connects to my air compressor.

Caliper bleeders are up. :)
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Yes it is upside down, and the spring on the parking brake arm should be behind the shoe. This keeps the arm sprung upward away from the axle. Also squeeze the top springs when you are done. This keeps them from spreading more and possibly coming off when they get warm.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what spring (parking break arm) you're talking about? Which color?
 
By the way I really appreciate everyone's replies here.

The more I "think" about it, my bet is on the reman Master, but I can't say for sure since I don't see it leaking anywhere.

Is there some test I can do to rule it out?
 
The spring that's on the flat bar going from shoe to shoe , (brown), the tang end goes behind shoe,,

and

A quick, easy check for air,, after you're sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly,, is ,.. with m/c cap on,, have friend pump 2 or 3 times and hold down,,, remove the cap,, have the pedal released as you watch the fluid levels,... any "geyser" ( fluid spouting well above the surface) is compressed air, "springing" fluid back,, front or rear,, and that system needs more bleeding..

-with the exception that,- if the rear brakes are outta adjustment,, the return springs can cause a fluid return from the rears..

setting the emergency can help if you can't adjust the rears..

brake fluid is excellent paint remover,, so don't splash any on your paint.. immed rinse with water if you do..

hope it helps... grant
 
inertia said:
The spring that's on the flat bar going from shoe to shoe , (brown), the tang end goes behind shoe,,

and

A quick, easy check for air,, after you're sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly,, is ,.. with m/c cap on,, have friend pump 2 or 3 times and hold down,,, remove the cap,, have pedal released as you watch fluid levels,... any "geyser" ( fluid spouting well above the surface) is compressed air, "springing" back,, front or rear,, and that system needs more bleeding..

-with the exception that,- if the rear brakes are outta adjustment,, the return springs can cause a fluid return from the rears.. setting the emergency can help if you can't adjust the rears..

brake fluid is excellent paint remover,, so don't get an splashed on your paint..

hope it helps... grant
Click to expand...

The spring you are refering to is on the left of the picture? I thought that was the "anti rattle spring"

I will check the master tonight, if my wife is up to it. lol.
 
Yes on anti-rattle spring.. left of pic..

good luck,, let us know how you make out..

If you get a 1 - 2 inch prolonged squirt outta it, that's air,.. dont side-step the pedal, or it could "spit" back a bit..
 
brake022.jpg
 
this spring tab should be behind the shoe but the pic above shows different
 

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Oldmanmopar said:
this spring tab should be behind the shoe but the pic above shows different
Click to expand...

Steve shouldnt there be 2 tabs/fingers on each end of the "anti-rattle" bar? One tab/finger goes behind shoe and one finger/tab goes in front. In essence the fingers/tabs "sandwich" the shoe?? No disprespect and not trying to stir anything up.....

Did you do one side at a time?? So lefts and rights didnt get mixed up?
 
4spdragtop said:
Steve shouldnt there be 2 tabs/fingers on each end of the "anti-rattle" bar? One tab/finger goes behind shoe and one finger/tab goes in front. In essence the fingers/tabs "sandwich" the shoe?? No disprespect and not trying to stir anything up.....

Did you do one side at a time?? So lefts and rights didnt get mixed up?
Click to expand...

You are correct about the bar but he is talking about the end of the spring that is on the strut bar.
 
4spdragtop said:
Steve shouldnt there be 2 tabs/fingers on each end of the "anti-rattle" bar? One tab/finger goes behind shoe and one finger/tab goes in front. In essence the fingers/tabs "sandwich" the shoe?? No disprespect and not trying to stir anything up.....

Did you do one side at a time?? So lefts and rights didnt get mixed up?
Click to expand...

Yes I did do 1 side at a time. I tried to use the other side as reference and the anti rattle print was clearly on wrong. I will fix this weekend.
 
So I went out after work and realized I did the MC test wrong, I did not have my buddy release., he just held and i got no squirts. I will redo this test again.

I did however try some other things:

I lifted the front wheels and spun them by hand and had my buddy press on the brakes, the fronts immediately stopped and while holding the pedal I could not move the front wheels. So that tells me the calipers are clamping good.

Did same test on rear wheels, however I could move the wheels a little with pedal down. This makes me think the rears need to be adjusted out more.

I tried moving the car back and forth and I get a slightly firmer pedal when I pump the brakes just once while idling in drive.

Thoughts?
 
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