Camshaft Removal
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but it seems like there are some problems here that could turn out very badly for you.
I've put the pushrods and rocker arms back on and turned engine over multiple times and didn't notice any problems.
If you did this with hydraulic lifters, then the lifter was collapsed as you rotated the crank by hand. This effectively reduces the lift at the valve and is not an effective way to measure valve to piston clearance. When the engine is running and the lifter is at full hydraulic pressure, then you very well could have interference.
Yes I piled on the assembly lube and by multiple I only meant about 3 to 3.5 times and of course its still by hand as I have not yet put the engine in the truck now that I'm learning of all these extra steps I didn't see coming.
Too late, your lube is already gone.
Think of it this way: if your springs have a closed pressure of 85 lbs and an open pressure of only 215 lbs and you have stock 1.5:1 ratio rocker arms, then the pressure applied by the lifter to the camshaft lobe is between 128 and 333 lbs. That much force will scrape off a whole lot of lube in 3 to 3.5 revolutions. At this point your engine will need to fire immediately (likely 1 crank or less) on first start up to avoid wiping a lobe.
Btw, if you're using valve springs as weak as the ones I listed here with that .518/.543 cam you will experience valve float and lifter pump-up at best, or you'll have a valve kiss a piston at worst.
Sorry to be a buzz-kill, but I see a complete engine rebuild in your future if you keep going down this path. If you get the right springs for that cam and install it correctly, you could still have a screaming 440 though! Good luck, I hope it turns out well.
