Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

sdcarsey, you said, "I'd suggest a boost valve to help up the pressure and a good set of servos. They don't cost a lot and are good insurance the trans will survive. The ones I've used has ranged from fresh builds with all race internals to just pulling one out of a used car and installing the boost valve and servos. That combo will allow a little more room for error with adjusting the TV cable too."



Good info, I am definitely not a transmission expert. But I'm damn good at research. But just because a site tells you to replace this part or that part doesn't really tell what I need for the trans that I'm building. Sounds like you're not telling me to go whole hog and replace everything with super heavy duty stuff. You're just telling me the important things I need to make "MY BUILD". That's exactly what I want. Now the questions.....

Do I need:
pressure regulator valve yes
hardened stator support if available for the 2004R yes
10 vane pump (I think this is a no brainer) yes
hardened pump rings (these go with the pump) yes
2nd gear Kevlar band go for it
Bearing (sun gear to internal gear)
Bearing thrust rear carrier for lo/reverse roller clutch
plate (lo/reverse clutch waved) plate (direct clutch backing 4.50mm)
9 friction plates in the lo/reverse clutch pack( get a kit with kolene steels and Alto red friction plates for the transmission.
ETC, ETC...

My point is, I'm not building a race/drag car. Just a cruiser with attitude so what things in the tranny are really important to upgrade. I don't mind spending a little money to ensure that the tranny last a good while. This car will never see the drag strip!! But it might see a Mustang (in the rear view mirror!!!!).

As for the non-lock-up

Treblig

In answer to your Do I need question: Also get:
Shift kit
all bushings and bearings (make sure pump bushing is teflon coated <same as 700R4),
Both the Low roller clutch assembly and the Overdrive Roller clutch assembly.
Replace the electrical switches (except the lockup solenoid, as you're making the transmission non-lockup.
The Superior super servo might be a good idea.
Give it a complete rebuild, and add the HP/HD parts you think it might need.

On the converter, seeing as you've got a torquey engine, get a furnace brazed converter. Brazing just makes them stronger.

Don't forget, the GM converter will have a 1.703" pilot to fit in the crankshaft (of a GM engine) while the Mopar Crank hole will measure 1.810", and the converter pilot MUST fit in the crank, other wise there is no support on the front of the converter. Not a good thing. Your converter supplier will have to build you a special converter with the Mopar sized crank pilot. Not a big issue for any quality converter rebuilder.

Have fun.