Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

Do I need:
-pressure regulator valve - Yes
-hardened stator support - not needed unless you put a lot of miles on the car in your set-up
-10 vane pump (I think this is a no brainer) - No more than it cost - Yes
-hardened pump rings (these go with the pump) -no more than they are i'd install them but usually come with pump
-2nd gear Kevlar band - with the band you can use the kevlar, but don't use the wider one unless you replace the drum with a new unit, it will only grab on the edges and wear uneven
-Bearing (sun gear to internal gear) - check for wear in these areas
-Bearing thrust rear carrier for lo/reverse roller clutch
plate (lo/reverse clutch waved) plate (direct clutch backing 4.50mm) - always replace these bearing and check for wear here also
-9 friction plates in the lo/reverse clutch pack - anytime you can add clutches your better off
- billet servos - some of these factory pieces cracked and will get wedged sideways and pinch seals, etc. Plus you get great firm shifts.

- Once again this is based on what I've read about your set-up in your thread. You can do a lot more and make sure you get 100k trouble free miles out of it, but figure seals will fail before you reach this point. Like Transman said I assume your replacing all seals, bushings, bearings, etc.

I'll get you some part #'s when I get home, I'm sure I have a set in the garage. Until then you can check out this site, they have some explanations about their parts better than some sites, but their site isn't the best to navigate. Just thought it may help out. And once again, great work man!
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/200-4r.htm