Cylinder has spark but not firing..

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OK lol. If i hope that i did this right. I was told to take pics of the readings as well so i did. These will be in order as follows. #2, #4, #6, #8 and #1, #3, #5, #7. and for some reason, the coil read 0??? Im not sure what the hell these readings mean.
 

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duey_roc said:
OK lol. If i hope that i did this right. I was told to take pics of the readings as well so i did. These will be in order as follows. #2, #4, #6, #8 and #1, #3, #5, #7. and for some reason, the coil read 0??? Im not sure what the hell these readings mean.
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IMO you have your meter on the wrong setting to get a good accurate reading. Turn the adjustment counterclockwise to the 20K setting and try again if the wires are stock type wires. For low ohm aftermarket wires set it to the 2000 setting.
 
fishy68 said:
IMO you have your meter on the wrong setting to get a good accurate reading. Turn the adjustment counterclockwise to the 20K setting and try again if the wires are stock type wires. For low ohm aftermarket wires set it to the 2000 setting.
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Ok ya i wasnt sure what setting to use it on. Ill try it again tomorrow. Too late tonight :newb:
 
Did you not say you already put new plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc...? I have read and re-read this entire thread and the same things have been said numerous times, on what to check and how to diagnois it. It was suggested that you OHM your wires around post 30. I suggest to start reading from the very beginning and do the tests as had been suggested. You say that your plugs in question are oil fouled already. If they are new and oily already, you must be pulling a lot of oil from somewhere. You said you changed everything new since the beginning of this post or is it you had not really done so, but long before this post began. The story keeps jumping around.
 
how to eliminate the Intake from being a problem, with tools in your house or garage (I do a lot of trouble shooting at other peoples houses ) so not always having the right tool with me I turn to the mcguyver way. remove pcv valve and place a plastic baggy under it and put back in place, next remove the oil filler and seal it also, look at valve covers and seal anything that can leak vacuum from the crankcase also tighten valve cover bolts , next open baggy or vacuum gauge and place it on oil dip stick tube and seal air tight with tape or wire tie after removing oil level gauge. start engine and adjust idle to 2000 rpm for 4 min did the baggy get sucked in or out if in goes in you have a intake sealing problem and it doesn't make any difference if 8/4 are firing while testing if this passes the intake is not leaking then do what others have said and shim rocker shaft out .030 .shims at most mopar supply stores.
 
gliderider06 said:
Did you not say you already put new plugs, wires, cap, rotor etc...? I have read and re-read this entire thread and the same things have been said numerous times, on what to check and how to diagnois it. It was suggested that you OHM your wires around post 30. I suggest to start reading from the very beginning and do the tests as had been suggested. You say that your plugs in question are oil fouled already. If they are new and oily already, you must be pulling a lot of oil from somewhere. You said you changed everything new since the beginning of this post or is it you had not really done so, but long before this post began. The story keeps jumping around.
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Omg I can't believe people are arill getting butt hurt over this.... Yes I told everyone I have replaced wires etc but I was still told to try this like 4 or 5 poets back. So because I appreciate everyone's ideas I'm going to try it.
 
teringer said:
how to eliminate the Intake from being a problem, with tools in your house or garage (I do a lot of trouble shooting at other peoples houses ) so not always having the right tool with me I turn to the mcguyver way. remove pcv valve and place a plastic baggy under it and put back in place, next remove the oil filler and seal it also, look at valve covers and seal anything that can leak vacuum from the crankcase also tighten valve cover bolts , next open baggy or vacuum gauge and place it on oil dip stick tube and seal air tight with tape or wire tie after removing oil level gauge. start engine and adjust idle to 2000 rpm for 4 min did the baggy get sucked in or out if in goes in you have a intake sealing problem and it doesn't make any difference if 8/4 are firing while testing if this passes the intake is not leaking then do what others have said and shim rocker shaft out .030 .shims at most mopar supply stores.
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I'm having trouble following this.... So cover all valve breathers with bags. Start the engine and if they get sucked in, I don't have a vacuum leak? Lol
 
teringer said:
how to eliminate the Intake from being a problem, with tools in your house or garage (I do a lot of trouble shooting at other peoples houses ) so not always having the right tool with me I turn to the mcguyver way. remove pcv valve and place a plastic baggy under it and put back in place, next remove the oil filler and seal it also, look at valve covers and seal anything that can leak vacuum from the crankcase also tighten valve cover bolts , next open baggy or vacuum gauge and place it on oil dip stick tube and seal air tight with tape or wire tie after removing oil level gauge. start engine and adjust idle to 2000 rpm for 4 min did the baggy get sucked in or out if in goes in you have a intake sealing problem and it doesn't make any difference if 8/4 are firing while testing if this passes the intake is not leaking then do what others have said and shim rocker shaft out .030 .shims at most mopar supply stores.
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I am lost here... oil filter removal and seal it? Oil breather maybe?
 
People are not having their feelings hurt over this. In that I guarantee you are mistaken. It's that the frustration level gets to be too much. There are some very savvy people on this site, YOU have to trust what they are saying. Thing is, you are baffled, they are trying to help based on what you are telling them. If you are going to just go do your own thing after advice is given, it's no wonder people get frustrated. This is just my opinion from what I have read here, and trust me, I have read this from the beginning. See, I don't know either, I hope to pick up some tidbits of knowledge also. So, yes, some people here are just throwing their hands up over this and walking away. Thing is, and here is my advice, WRITE down everything you have done so far. And re read over this thread that you started and start checking things off. One thing is you need a plan, and DO ONE THING AT A TIME! Going helter skelter all over the place is not the way to do it. You have a problem, you need to be smarter than the problem. Now, if my comments here upset you, then so be it, I sugar coated it. See, I don't have anything at stake here, along with the members who are trying to help. You need them more than they need you. I will continue to watch this until the resolution just to see if you get it going, but no more comments from me. Good luck!!
 
Sounds pretty simple.
1. Spark but not running on those cyl
2. Oil fouled plugs

Intake leak, or multiple wild shots from a tennis player resulting in the ball getting stuck in your intake runners while you had it apart last time.

Pick one that seems most reasonable. :)
 
OK if the plastic bag on the dipstick tube is pulled in or if your vacuum gauge is reading vacuum not pressure you have a intake sealing problem, this is very common way of testing had to do it every time we tuned up a old FE type ford engine 352.390.428 50% of the time the gaskets were sucked into runners, also carbs were blamed for being bad no adjustable idle on cylinders sharing runners (we had a vacuum gauge so didn't need plastic bag)
 
I got it,, cool field test,,

thnx teringer
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Duey Roc .. you say the manifold locator pins are gone,, did you notice any marks where the pins meet manifold..

Where I'm going with this,, is I had a manifold that had been pulled down over the pins,, AND there were no holes in the manifold.. It bowed the manifold so it sucked oil/ leaked vacuum on the inside.. ( post 68 )

If someone has done it to that manifold, it may be bent,, ours was ,, so we put it in a press and flattened it.. ( Yeah, I know, NOT "recommended service procedure")

You said you welded a crack in that manifold,, what caused the crack ???

hope it helps
 
Well I tried the resistance reading and posted that. I ordered an intake from 63Belvedere and I'm gonna try replacing that when it gets here. I know I'm in anticipation too haha. Thank you to EVERYONE that's been helping me out.
 
I thought I read in here where the heads were a mismatch or shaved or milled or something. When you crank the new manifold down is it going to break too, assuming the one on there is broken?
 
inertia said:
I got it,, cool field test,,

thnx teringer
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Duey Roc .. you say the manifold locator pins are gone,, did you notice any marks where the pins meet manifold..

Where I'm going with this,, is I had a manifold that had been pulled down over the pins,, AND there were no holes in the manifold.. It bowed the manifold so it sucked oil/ leaked vacuum on the inside.. ( post 68 )

If someone has done it to that manifold, it may be bent,, ours was ,, so we put it in a press and flattened it.. ( Yeah, I know, NOT "recommended service procedure")

You said you welded a crack in that manifold,, what caused the crack ???

hope it helps
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Thanks for the input man. Ya it had a crack in the water jacket up front when I bought it from the PO. he didn't tell me about it -_- but I had it welded and it doesn't leak. I ran this intake on my old 318 in my dart and it worked for a little bit but something was always wrong with it. Those pins aren't there anymore. I don't think it's warped. I think it has an actual crack on the bottom. As soon as I get my new intake, we'll find out
 
duey_roc said:
Well I tried the resistance reading and posted that. I ordered an intake from 63Belvedere and I'm gonna try replacing that when it gets here. I know I'm in anticipation too haha. Thank you to EVERYONE that's been helping me out.
Click to expand...

so you ordered another Intake manfold before taking the old one off to confirm it has a crack....

I think the head is cracked...and it is not the one on the engine....lol
 
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