Unported head quickness?

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Yes..Bill....hope to be heading up to Sears pt for the drag races next weekend....I met you there about 20 yrs ago or so...
 
Yes..Bill....hope to be heading up to Sears pt for the drag races next weekend....I met you there about 20 yrs ago or so...

I retired from the San Francisco Chronicle in 2004 and moved back to Little Rock, Arkansas where I went to high school and had grown up.

I miss the great Bay Area weather and the world-class drag strip at Sonoma, but not the traffic and smog checks every two years....

Nice to hear from you, Tony!!!:blob:
 
66 Valiant, 2700 lbs with driver, 225 slant stock short block, unported head milled .100, 340 valve springs, and a .460 lift Crane cam. Headers, Offie intake, 390 Holley, MSD 6a, 9 1/2 inch Edge converter, 3.91 gear. 14.46 in the quarter, on motor. 13.2x on spray
 
66 Cuda 3250 lbs with driver, 170 slant six stock short block, unported milled head .100, 340 valve springs, and a .434 lift Crane cam, stock 1bbl intake modified for a 500 Holley 2bbl. headers, Msd 6a, 8 inch PTC converter, 3.91 rear. 16.5x in the quarter on motor.
13.102 at 100.65 mph on spray
 
I think this will be a great addition to this thread.

11-1 340 .030. The cam is a solid bullet regrind from a hyd .508 mopar. duration is 252 I / 253 E @ .050, 281 I / 284 E with .516 lift.

Unported J heads with stock 1.88/1.60 tulip valves. Home grown 1 angle valve job. Stock retainers and keepers. 130 lbs seat pressure 290 open. Still has the 273 rockers on it. Victor 340 intake, working alternator and fan.

The car is my 1970 dodge dart weighing 3300lbs with me in it. 5.13 gear and a 18 spine a body 4-speed and a 28 x 9 inch tire. Going to put the 4.86 in it next. It still has 1 7/8 hooker headers on it (too big). Also adding 2 1/2 exhaust soon.

7.68 @ 89.11
 
hi, how do you figure 1 7/8 are too big? I ran 1 3/4 , switched to 1 7/8 , picked up solid .2 and 2 mph faster over the smaller headers. the 1 7/8 do require a longer collector. later on , i went from 3 " dia collector to 3 1/2 " dia collector, gained . 05 and almost 1 mph. just food forthought
 
I do have the longer collectors. I am going to put 3 inch exhaust on it and see where its goes from there. It seems to me that it could have a little more low end but that could also be the single plane intake.
 
My favorite A body from my past...was built in late 80s and street raced and steadily improved from about '88 to '95 in Lincoln, Ne:

'67 Barracuda fastback, gutted interior with 2 lowback poly seats and a B&M Pro Stick, 3100 pounds with me in it. Ran best of 11.68 @115.62, most runs were 11.70s to 11.80s. Shifted 1-2 @4800, 2-3 @ 5200, through the traps @ 5500

Bottom end: standard bore '70 440 block, NOS cast 8.2:1 pistons, stock 440 standard rods, stock forged crank, 402 pan, hi volume oil pump, cloyes tru roller timing gear.

Top end: MP purple shaft .474 hemi grind cam, advanced 4 deg, rhoades lifters, new stock stamped rockers, new shafts, 906 heads w/ stock valves very minor bowl work and good valve job & cut .050, Holley Street Dominator intake gasket matched and cleaned up runners, stock 4781 Holley 850 dp, MSD billet distributor, MSD blaster coil, MSD 6al box, Accel plugs and wires, CPPA 2" underchassis headers, 3 1/2 flowmaster mufflers (forget which type).

Trans: 727 with B&M manual pack, deep pan, stock high-stall converter

Rear: A body 8 3/4 with 3.91 sure grip, cut and resplined C-body axles by Moser, 11 x 2 1/2 drum brakes

Front suspension: stock '73+ bbp front end, DC engine swap K-member, rebuilt manual steering box, /6 t bars, worn out shocks, 15 X 3 1/2 Centerline Auto-Drags, skinny radial street tires

Rear suspension: springs from a '72 Duster 340 (car was rusted beyond saving), rear clamps removed, 2 extra front clamps, Rancho long shocks, solid front bushing, no snubber, 9 X 28 MT slicks on 15 X 7 Centerline Auto-Drags.


This car was brutally simple and effective. Beat tons of "built" cars with a mostly stock drivetrain. I usually had less in my entire car than my opponents had into just their engine. Had people crawl in and under the car looking for a hidden nitrous bottle several times. Eventually towards the end I did put a NOS Cheater plate on the car, never went to the track with nitrous, but was beating well known high 10 cars by 2-3 car lengths
 
My favorite A body from my past...was built in late 80s and street raced and steadily improved from about '88 to '95 in Lincoln, Ne:

'67 Barracuda fastback, gutted interior with 2 lowback poly seats and a B&M Pro Stick, 3100 pounds with me in it. Ran best of 11.68 @115.62, most runs were 11.70s to 11.80s. Shifted 1-2 @4800, 2-3 @ 5200, through the traps @ 5500

Bottom end: standard bore '70 440 block, NOS cast 8.2:1 pistons, stock 440 standard rods, stock forged crank, 402 pan, hi volume oil pump, cloyes tru roller timing gear.

Top end: MP purple shaft .474 hemi grind cam, advanced 4 deg, rhoades lifters, new stock stamped rockers, new shafts, 906 heads w/ stock valves very minor bowl work and good valve job & cut .050, Holley Street Dominator intake gasket matched and cleaned up runners, stock 4781 Holley 850 dp, MSD billet distributor, MSD blaster coil, MSD 6al box, Accel plugs and wires, CPPA 2" underchassis headers, 3 1/2 flowmaster mufflers (forget which type).

Trans: 727 with B&M manual pack, deep pan, stock high-stall converter

Rear: A body 8 3/4 with 3.91 sure grip, cut and resplined C-body axles by Moser, 11 x 2 1/2 drum brakes

Front suspension: stock '73+ bbp front end, DC engine swap K-member, rebuilt manual steering box, /6 t bars, worn out shocks, 15 X 3 1/2 Centerline Auto-Drags, skinny radial street tires

Rear suspension: springs from a '72 Duster 340 (car was rusted beyond saving), rear clamps removed, 2 extra front clamps, Rancho long shocks, solid front bushing, no snubber, 9 X 28 MT slicks on 15 X 7 Centerline Auto-Drags.


This car was brutally simple and effective. Beat tons of "built" cars with a mostly stock drivetrain. I usually had less in my entire car than my opponents had into just their engine. Had people crawl in and under the car looking for a hidden nitrous bottle several times. Eventually towards the end I did put a NOS Cheater plate on the car, never went to the track with nitrous, but was beating well known high 10 cars by 2-3 car lengths

Now, THAT;s what I call HOT RODDING!!! :) Nice work!!!!
 
72 Dart Swinger,8.75 rear with 3.23 sure grip, 727 with cheetah reverse manual valvebody and stock converter, Offenhauser 360 degree intake from a junkyard, Holley 600 vacuum secondary, Dynomax long tube headers, all resting on and bolted to a COMPLETELY BONE STOCK '74 318 from a van. Picked the motor and tranny up -minus the low buck goodies- for $150 and set it in the car. The car ran 15.74 @86 mph shifting at 4500 rs (no clue on how loose the timing set is) at a very humid and hot Mopar Nats last year.
Future plans are to add a set of 714 swirl port heads ( junkyard picked for $60), freshen up the bottom end and a cam (any suggestions?)
 
YES! On the advice, start a thread on it instead of looking for it in the how to section. Go to the performance area or racers section.

To much chatter here! List what ya got!

Though I'd like to thank AARCUDA for a great one liner on post a time answer
 
Settle down everyone..... Lets not start the first fight of 2014.

Please don't make me close the thread
 
not sure if we will count a bowl blend in the ported category? I don't, but if so then feel free to delete. here goes....

71 dodge dart, suspect weight is around 3300 with driver, 408 with 11-1 compression, comp cams solid roller and lifters, air gap intake that has been gasket matched, 750 AED carb, 1.76 powerglide trans, 8 3/4 with 4.86 gear, 1 5/8 inch headers, 1 inch open spacer, MSD distributor and 6al box.

Heads are RHS X heads that have been bowl worked by IMM Engines. no port work to the runners at all. 1.5 ratio Harland Sharp shaft mounted rockers.

car has been 6.832 @ 99.03 mph in the eighth mile, and still tuning.
 
1965 dodge coronet, bone stock 1965 383 "original motor to the car"
.528 mopar solid
Stock 2463200 casting heads"i read they are same as 516 heads
Mp dual springs
Holley 850 ontop if a street dominator
Mp distributor 38* total timing
1 3/4 headman headers
727 home built rmvb with 8" treenaster flashes to about 4300
Stock suspension with springs clamped and snubber
4.56 gears
275 mt drag radial at 3500lb went 12.65 at 104
Msd had a 6200 chip and i was on the rev limiter about 30 yrds before the traps
 

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Had a 318 72 Dart all that was changed was heads milled to bring up compression , Holley street dominator , 850 thermoquad off a 1974 440 Road runner with hooker headers ran a 14.4 @ 91 . 904 with 8 3/4 with 3.23 , G 60 14 Kelly Springfield tires . 106 octane Sunoco gas

77 Ramcharger 4x4 with 440 six pac block rods and crank , 12.5 TRW forged pistons cut down to 11.5 , 2" hooker headers and a Holley 850 dp ,Torker intake , not sure the cam as bought the motor off a bankrupt race shop for $800.00 , it was built for a super stock Barracuda . I needed an electric Vacuum pump for the brakes . Ran a 13.6 @ 104 with 3.55 and 33 inch tires . In low range nothing could keep up with it until 80 mph , the top end in low range .The off road tires sounded like a retarded St Bernard doing a burnout . Had the truck from 1977 - 1993 .
 
73 duster , 318 from a 1983 police pursuit diplomat. Motor has 360 heads, cheap headers, cherry bombs, 2 1/2 pipes out the side. Dual quad tunnel ram with 2 - 600 cfm's edelbrock/ Carters. Stripped interior accept 2 low back buckets ( junk yard van seats).no bumpers, brackets, or hood. 4 speed. 8 1/4 line lock rearend 355's. 15 × 10.5 × 26 ET slicks. The best so far is a 14.2 @96mph. Thats very few runs and no tuning. It's got 13's in it?!?
I hope:)
 
Junkyard LA short block + unported EQ magnum heads 2.02/1.625 + 224/230 .513" cam = 12.91 @ 105.6 MPH

The other parts in the "Pile":
MP M1 dual plane intake
1/2" 4 hole plastic spacer
Holley 3310 Vac Secondary carb (white spring in secondary, stock jetting)
Summit Racing 1 5/8" headers
Summit Racing 2 1/2" duals to the back bumper (no crossover)

904 with DIY shift kit
3200 Stall Edge Racing converter

8 3/4 with sure grip and 3.91 gears
255R-17 Riken Raptors on 17x8 rim

All steel 67 Dart running at a race weight of 3450lbs
 
Junkyard LA short block + unported EQ magnum heads 2.02/1.625 + 224/230 .513" cam = 12.91 @ 105.6 MPH

The other parts in the "Pile":
MP M1 dual plane intake
1/2" 4 hole plastic spacer
Holley 3310 Vac Secondary carb (white spring in secondary, stock jetting)
Summit Racing 1 5/8" headers
Summit Racing 2 1/2" duals to the back bumper (no crossover)

904 with DIY shift kit
3200 Stall Edge Racing converter

8 3/4 with sure grip and 3.91 gears
255R-17 Riken Raptors on 17x8 rim

All steel 67 Dart running at a race weight of 3450lbs

Nice simple, solid combination.
 
'71 cuda 340 all steel....3550lbs?....back in 1987 at Santa Pod

stock '71 motor, 2.02/1.60 no porting
DC .590" solid flat tappet
Strip Dominator+2" spacer
850DP
1.3/4" Hedman Chassis Headers
MSD6A
Manual 727, 4200 stall
Stock Leaf springs+Snubber
4.30 gears
Good Year 10x28"
12.39@108.5

Hit it with a 250 shot went 11.01@123
 
not sure if we will count a bowl blend in the ported category?.

I do and absolutely so. The head is no longer stock in the port. Doing a valve job, stock or fancy is fine. Sometimes it is needed. Getting a little fancy or creative on the valve job is what it is. Once you go beyond the valve job, there's only the port.

Having work done under the valve, (the bowl area) costs extra money. The idea of the thread is to see how fast you can go without spending that extra money. I don't know how much you spent on that work because it is a variable cost from shop to shop and what exactly it entails can also vary, but that cost is a cost to be avoided. Hence the threads title.

Still, it is a good combo and I'm not knocking it.
 
I do and absolutely so. The head is no longer stock in the port. Doing a valve job, stock or fancy is fine. Sometimes it is needed. Getting a little fancy or creative on the valve job is what it is. Once you go beyond the valve job, there's only the port.

Having work done under the valve, (the bowl area) costs extra money. The idea of the thread is to see how fast you can go without spending that extra money. I don't know how much you spent on that work because it is a variable cost from shop to shop and what exactly it entails can also vary, but that cost is a cost to be avoided. Hence the threads title.

Still, it is a good combo and I'm not knocking it.


:eek:ops:
 
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