FYI - TTI Header Clearance Issue (Solution)

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DEVIOUSDUSTER

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Hello A-Body Nation

Just wanted to post some pictures of how we worked around the clearance issues posed with the slip tube on my new set of TTI ceramic coated headers. I'm in the process of prepping my '70 Duster for paint and before it see's the booth, we wanted to make sure everything fit correctly in the engine compartment. Glad we did...
 

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Good to learn, but pictures would make this even better. A Red X isn't as cool as actual pictures!
 
i would also like the see the photos. could your try to re post them again please :)
 
Once we installed the motor and tranny into the k-member we began to fit the headers. The passenger side went in with little effort but the drivers side took a little more elbow grease.

Once the drivers side was bolted on we noticed that there was little to no clearance between the slip tube and the frame rail. (This was not cool - especially considering how much these ceramic coated headers cost)
 

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Thankfully, I have a very good buddy that works at the hot rod shop down the road, and he was able to help.

What he proposed was to trace around the header and onto the frame rail with a paint pen. From there, he notched that section out with a cutoff wheel and bur bit on a pneumatic die grinder. He then cut a chunk of tubbing (roughly 3 inch ID) and then tack welded it into the notched area.

After some final trimming he then final welded and then ground it smooth. Here is the final product.
 

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looks nice. paying that much or headers though you would expect them to fit without altering the frame of the car... part of the hobby though haha
 
I had to do the same thing to my frame.
 
I don't see this as a solution for all...but maybe a few..

On our '75 Duster...no mods, bends or whatever were required to install our ceramic TTis... it was all tight ...even threading out torsion bar through them..

When we were installing them, I asked the same question . I found that many on this board were able to install them without mods..

Is you engine aligned properly.

Great pics though..

Grassy
 
Everything aligns as it should but the header was just too close for comfort. I didn't want to take a chance with any side to side movement of the motor.
 
I also had no issues with the TTi's in a 70' Dart.....but regardless, it's a nice clean solution to your clearance problem, Good Job, Much better than a 5lb sledge hammer fix I've seen here before.
 
Everything aligns as it should but the header was just too close for comfort. I didn't want to take a chance with any side to side movement of the motor.

I couldn't move the motor to the passenger side if I wanted to because the PS torsion bar was already kisssing the header pipe on that side. It was literally wedged by the frame on the DS and the torsion bar on the PS. Maybe they don't make all these headers the EXACT same???
 
I suspect that with their equipment, each set is identical. The problem lies with our cars...they are not identical as they roll down the assembly line..i think tolerances were just a "guideline" :)

As I have said before, the way my car was assembled, there was obviously no pride taken by the building crew...they were just slapped together... this is what gave the jap car manufacturers their in.. Too bad.
 
I know mine was a tight fit going around that DS torsion bar, I had to shim my engine to get it to factory specs. Did you check to make sure you were in spec? You will have a nice ride when done.
 
Did you get your starter yet ?...we tried all the one's they have listed in there instructions starting with the cheapest and the only one that would fit was the most $$$$$ and clock-able.
 
The starter I have seemed to fit fine. I'll have to check on the brand and part number but no issues there. It is a used mini starter the car came with. Shouldn't need anything too drastic as the motor's CR is only about 10.2:1
 
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