Improving MPG

Here is my go to list, in order, to tune, which inherently will improve MPG, because once it's tuned, it's doing what it should be doing with the fuel, making more power per stroke.

A- Check tire pressure. Give it a square 35psi on all 4 corners. Check cylinder pressure. Don't skip on this. This is the most important part. A good engine should be seeing at least 120psi min. Better numbers are closer to 150-160psi. For good fuel economy, you will need at least 130psi.

If you are not seeing at least 130, your engine isn't going to fetch anything for MPG, no matter what you bolt on to it or how you've adjusted whatever you've bolted on to it.

If you don't see 130psi, check for leakdown. You need to see at least 75% pressure hold. If you do not see this, you've got a sealing issue and again, you will not get good power.

2- Keep that spark plug socket out and check the spark plugs, cap and rotor. Seems simple, but re-gap the plugs and make sure they are clean. You can have a brand new, computerized injection engine run like a 3 legged dog on bad plugs.

D- Don't put the plugs back in yet. Check ignition timing, using a piston stop. If you don't use a piston stop, you could be playing yourself. Check TDC and mark it, with a stop. Once you have measured and actually know where TDC is and it's marked, you're not done. Put a witness mark on the front of the balancer that goes across the rubber isolating layer, from the outer to the inner. Fire it up and hit it with zero on the light. Write it down. Point the light at your witness mark and make note if it has crossed up under motion. see if it moves more under more throttle. If it does, you may want another balancer. If it stays in position, or even crossed up a little, make note of how much it's moved and know that your timing mark is exactly that far off.

Check the advance pot on the dist. with a vac pump and gauge to make sure that it is moving and holding 100% vacuum at a real level of vacuum that your engine sees. I check mine at 14in.

Check total timing with degree tape or a dial back light and make sure it comes in before 3200rpm. If it doesn't, get a spring kit to recurve the distributor.

%- Once everything checks out, adjust idle to 650-700 RPM, in gear. Check throttle response and again under load. Set accelerator appropriately. Double check idle mixture screw setting and be sure that it's set to drop idle by 50 RPM. This is a lean-best idle. reset idle back to 650-700 (the lowest it sounds smooth in gear) with the idle screw, now that it's dropped.

&-Check AFR. If you do not have o2, consider getting a good reader kit and having them installed. If not, take your car to the emissions clinic and have it read. You are looking for as close to 14.7:1 mixture.

6-Check trans fluid level in gear. Check kickdown adjustment. If kickdown isn't set correct, it can inherently hold the lower gear longer and can also eat clutches quickly.

3- Jack the front of the car up and feel for brake resistance.

This is what works for me. Of course, if I notice anything off about the car, like a misfire or something else, I immediately go to diagnostic. If the engine is running ok, I will start tuning.

Never assume that any marking on a part or part that you install is correctly adjusted. Take the time to measure it and know for yourself. You may find yourself looking to degree your cam or other in-depth tuning, if you can't achieve good results with the little things.