Trim polishing

-
I use a bench grinder outside with polishing wheels on it. Usually use two different coarseness of rouges to get a good bright finish. You can buy the supplies from Eastwood and others.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0005(5).jpg
    63.6 KB · Views: 570
Heres what me and my dad used. We used it on a high rpm drill worked great. But just make sure if your using the bench mounted buffer always polish the pieces with the wheel turning off the edge not against. Itll turn into a pretzel. Also if your using the drill kit make sure you have someone else to hold the pieces. Note: on stainless use a 500 grit sand paper and sand lightly and uniformly. Then go to 1000 grit and then to 1500 or 2000 grit then rinse dry and begin polishing. Hope this helps good luck



http://www.eastwood.com/deluxe-polishing-automotive-18-pc-kit.html
 
I use a bench grinder outside with polishing wheels on it. Usually use two different coarseness of rouges to get a good bright finish. You can buy the supplies from Eastwood and others.

Mitch, Which two rouges do you prefer?
 
Hello, I use stuff called Flitz. Comes in paste form like toothpaste. I use a terry cloth wash cloth for application and buffing. The terry cloth material seems to work better than other material I have used, The final buffing/polishing I use a micro fiber cloth. The other posts are also good techniques. Using the Flitz and wash cloth works well when the trim is still on the car.

Just use a small dab on the cloth and rub 'till the cloth turns black, another dab of Flitz and rub 'till the cloth turns black etc. Hope this helps and good luck. Bink
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0169.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 521
Thanks, for the replies, What about the wheel well trim and the trim pieces around the headlights , can this be brought to a shine? Its not the same metal as the windshield trim.
 
If the exterior trim piece is not anodized jewelers/polishing rouge or flitz works great. If it is anodized, it needs to be stripped, polished, and sealed.

The easy way to strip is to use oven cleaner. Polish with cloth wheel and jewelers rouge. Both are available at big box hardware stores. Personally, after polishing, I took the pieces to be re-anodized before they had the opportunity to tarnish. Anodizing will put a slightly milky finish on the piece.
 
The piece that goes across the front of the hood should be stainless but the fender extension trim is chromed pot metal at least on my 71 demon it is might be different on other models
 
Search thru Waggin threads, he has a tutorial on this....just looked for it but could not find it, might want to contact him.....the thread was VERY informative....
 
There are basically 3 different kinds of trim, stainless, aluminum, chrome plated.
Each requires a different process. Google is a great resource, but even there you will get better results with terms like polishing stainless, polishing anodized aluminum, etc..
A ground strap on your body ( ankle ) will prevent static shocks.
Nothing will prevent a machines throwing a piece of trim, chit happens. Be careful, Good luck
 

Thank you kindly.

trim up!... :D
1382994_530467343702311_336893962_n.jpg
 
Thanks for all the help.

As 2Darts said the wheel well trim is anodized and will need to be stripped as he suggested. After polishing I use Eastwood clear metal finish. There's other clears out there but theirs seems to hold up well in actual use.
 
I bought some wheels and compound from Harbor Freight. I mounted the wheels on my bench grinder. I used the gray and green compounds. I could have spent a lot more time on my trim but it's still nicer then how it would have come from the factory. Just take your time don't loose focus on what your doing. If the wheel catches and edge, it will rip the part out of your hands. Always where gloves and a face shield. Don't have any loose clothing on that could get wrapped up in the wheel.

If you have any scratches that you can feel with your finger nail, then you'll have to do some sanding on the part before you start buffing. If there are just light scratches, you can probably start buffing right away.
 
Vulcan death grip on the guiding hand, with leather gloves. Feed it or pull it through with the other, depending on what you need.

Another trick that I've noticed works great on long pieces, is to tape it to a piece of wood. Helps stabilize and keep the buffer wheel from trying to pick the trim up.

Don't polish over the tape, just tape at the ends nicely, hold the trim and the wood at the wheel and when you're done with most of it, take it off the wood and do the ends where the tape was and a little beyond.

Any trim that has intersecting lines, like I trim on the '69 Charger or curved pieces, any grille, concave stuff on C pillars, are best done on a drill with a smaller wheel.
 
You would be surprised what 0000 steel wool will do to clean and shine trim up.
 
I use 0000 steel wool all the time for cleaning up metal pieces. Your trim however will need to be buffed to look good.

Just this weekend I spent about 30 seconds buffing the ignition lock cylinder face. It's a night and day difference. Steel wool wouldn't have touched all the key scratches.
 
-
Back
Top