Handling upgrade...what parts?

You have frame connectors? That would help also

I don't, but that was part of the plan anyway.

Firm feel UCA's can come with urethane bushings, extra alignment abilities and ball joints. I like the shape b/c they clear wide w large backspace rims on the front.

Firm Feel UCAs quality product, pre-installed bushings, weld plates on the bottom of the stock LCAs to help limit flex in that area. also subframe connectors you are going to install will help. If you or a friend can weld you should consider a K frame brace / gusset kit from firm feel to limit flex. just my two cents. If you have any money left over buy some adjustable strut rods with Heim ends to help with smoother front suspension travel. a member here ironside , He builds a quality product, I GIVE HIM A SOLID 10 !
search "Adjustable Strut Rods !" here on this forum and he has pics. GOOD Luck ! Tim

goldduster318 said:

Thanks for the input. I actually have a '68 B-body rear axle in the car...so I'll need more rear backspacing

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Update on this one. I installed 18x10's with 295/35/18's on my Duster with the 54 15/16" wide B body rear end. I did cut the quarter lip by about a 1/4", but it looks like things are going to fit without any rubbing. Absolutely, positively as wide as you can go without a mini-tub on a car that sits somewhat low in the back. Anything bigger would hit the wheel tubs or quarters on the outside with any significant travel.

18x10's with 38mm offset, or 7" backspace.

To run 17x9's I would stick with my previous recommendation, about 6.2-6.8" of backspace or 30-45mm offset. You can get away with a little more than that in either direction, but there's a lot of options between 30-45mm offset.

Lots of good advice given so far just need to sort through it for a balanced package. My 2 cents: Alignment for modern radial tires will really help as stock specs are for bias ply tires but you need to correct your ball joint problem 1st. Nothing wrong with stock upper control arms and Moog misalignment bushings. These will give you plenty of caster adjustment. If you decide on tubular I recommend Firmfeel with bushings not heims as 72 bluNblu has stated. Frame connectors definitely and torque boxes if you feel the need. What are your goals for the car? You have some good equipment so far. If your sticking with the .920 TBs go with Bilstiens. If your going to step up to 1.06s + then go with Hotchkis/Fox as the valving is set up for that rate TB. Yes a bit more expensive but so are the Bilstiens. No need for the Adjustable Fox unless your doing track work and changing settings a lot. Are you happy with the roll stiffness of your current front bar? If not step up to a hollow 1.125 Helwig, saves 8 lbs over a solid bar and is cost effective. Unless your really going to drive the car hard I see no need for a rear sway bar. Mismatches here can screw up the handling of the car. If you "have" to have one .75 rear with a 1.125 front works. Of course bigger TB will also stiffen up the roll characteristics. If there are any worn out components in the front steering/suspension your pissing in the wind until that is delt with. After all that is sorted wide short sidewall modern tires/rims are next on the list but be aware that your trading ride "quality" for handling prowess over you current tire/rim. Your decision.