Lets talk Autocross

That is a tight course compared to a what you'ld find at most SCCA events.
I've not run MATS or Goodguys, just SCCA or equivalent so my answers will reflect that.

Autocrossers run both automatics and manual transmissions. Advantages to both.

Which gear to use depends on the course and your car. If you can keep the throttle inputs super smooth, and there's enough tire grip, the gears that get you the most torque and the least amount of shifts is the best. I'll recommend you try to keep it in 2nd until you get a feel for things.

Always remember that the goal of autocross is least time on the course. Often this is not the same as highest speed on the course. Extra motion and extra distance can cost more than extra speed can make up for. This leads to the very best thing you can do to prepare is take a 'class'. Your local sports car club may offer one of their own or sponsor an Evolution school. If you get nothing else out of it, with an Evolution Phase 1 class you'll get a lot of seat time. For most people, the concepts and instructors are very helpful too. I thought it wasa great bang for the buck. Link=>http://www.evoschool.com/

Back to the car. I agree that a soft rear sway bar could help make up for the inboard relocation of the leafs. Dedicated autocross cars are often setup with a the tail a bit loose. That's fine when you get multiple tries and have a very low chance of hitting something solid when the car slides or spins.

Roll by itself is not a problem, its the side effects. When its excessive it can bring the suspension geometry into an unfavorable range, and driver tolerance for it also varies. How much spring needed depends on how well the tires stick. Just use what you have - at least to start. It's not like your on /6 springs with a big block. Also, as you learn to take a better line and use smoother inputs the car will roll less. I've been more than guilty of working the car harder than necessary on course.



Autocross is all about transitions so shocks are very important. They are key to controlling the motion. They can also be big bucks. Might want to just go with what you have for now.

Definately go with an alignment more agressive than the factory in negative camber and positive caster. Set toe just in or zero. If it follows ruts on the highway, toe it in a little more. Bring a tire pressure gage, measure all four cold, and then hot. Often a little more air in front reduces rollover and a little less in the rear can help induce some oversteer and get the rear tires hotter faster.

PS. If you have an passenger, tell them to hold on to the seat bottom, not the rain gutter. Hands out the window will earn a DSQ if not a red flag at an SCCA event.