Voltage regulator upgrade? Keep frying voltage regulators with swap

the new ones i cant find the pinouts, but it looks like they have a 2 wire pigtail and the main charge wire. it looks like the two wire pigtail is a sense wire and IG wire.

but i'd suggest this... give these people a call, maybe they can give you info. i've seen the guy post on other forums about different alternator questions, he's a guru.

http://www.mechman.com/

I emailed this guy. He was quick to respond and commented on the issue:

The stock Mopar external regulator was never designed to carry that much field current, that is more than likely why they are failing.

You have two options:

1) You could use the 91102R external adjustable voltage regulator. This unit is designed to handle 15 amps Field current, and will hold up better than an OE mopar unit. We offer these VR’s for $110, and they have the added benefit of being adjustable for the charging voltage.

2) You could just send us your alternator (or order a new from us) and have it custom built with an internal voltage regulator. All you would need to do is connect a single ingnition switched turn on wire to the harness plug, and it would handle the rest. These internal voltage regulators are a little more reliable than the 91102R (in my experience) and also result in less wiring and stuff under the hood.

And then when asked about how much field draw and what he charges to install a VR in the alternator:

About 7 amps max rotor current on the 160 amp unit.

$60 to install an internal voltage regulator in your unit. You might also consider putting on one of our hard coated Billet-Aluminum 2.9” under drive alternator pulleys if you are road racing it. It will save some rotating mass and HP, and the 160 amp Denso units usually make enough low RPM output to where they are not bothered by the reduced ratio. The race pulley is $29.

To be honest, I'd love to find a Heavy Duty version of the factory VR design and just go with it. Can't find ratings on any of them though...