boy do I have a doozy for ya...

The problem(s) NO pun(s) intended, is that sometimes you can have multiple problems

But the most likely suspect is that the VR failed in such a way as to overcharge, then whatever inside the VR burned open and now it's not charging at all.

Start by checking out the alternator brushes

The alternator field connections should show a low reading, say, 5 ohms or so, between the two terminals. This is with the wire connectors disconnected.

Either terminal to ground should show "infinity" or "open."

Check your harness down to the alternator for shorts. The blue "push on" connector should show power with the key on, and the green goes up to one terminal of the regulator connector. That green should not show continuity to ground when disconnected from both alternator field and the regulator.

Make absolutely certain the new regulator is grounded. Clean the mounting and mount with star washers.

Inspect the regulator connector for corrosion or other damage, and 'work' it on / off the regulator several times to scrub the terminals and to feel for tightness.

Hook up the new VR and see if it charges. With battery "back up" and "normal" and with engine warm, voltage should run 13.8......14.2 when measured at the battery with a decent multimeter. Do not depend on your dash meter. IN so case, at fast idle, should voltage be below 13.5, nor should it be above 14.5

If it is ABOVE voltage, you most likely either have a poor ground from battery to regulator, or you have voltage drop in the ignition harness, a very very common problem.

Clip one lead of your meter to the blue wire connection at the alternator field. Don't unhook from the alternator, rather, "back probe" the connection. Clip the other lead to battery positive, such as the starter relay bat. stud.

Turn the key to run. You are hoping for a very low reading, the LOWER the better. More than .3V (three tenths of one volt) means you have voltage drop in the harness.

If you have factory wiring, the circuit path is from battery ....to starter relay stud...through fuse link.....through bulkhead.....to ammeter....through ammeter....out ammeter....to ignition switch connector....through switch....out switch connector on "ignition run" wire....back out bulkhead.....to ignition loads under hood

Every single one of these connections is suspect, and it might be a combo of more than one. Your most likely suspects are the bulkhead connector (twice) the ignition switch connector (twice) and the switch itself. Last suspects on the list are the ammeter itself, the connections at the ammeter, and what is called the 'welded factory splice'