Changing strut rods

Until the car is re-aligned I wouldn't change any parts if everything is rebuilt. You have enough cross-caster on your alignment to be causing the car to pull. Changing the tires after the alignment makes sense to me, but keep in mind they could also be part of the problem. So keep in mind if you drive your car after its been aligned to the proper specs, but before it has new tires, it may not fix all of the issues.

Make sure you get an alignment to the proper specs as well. The skosh chart posted on your other thread is a good place to start. Something in the ballpark of -.25 to -.5 degrees camber, +3 degrees caster, and 1/16" to 1/8" (max) toe in would be decent for a street driver with radials.

If your shop won't align to those specs, find a new shop. The original alignment specs for these cars that are "in the book" are for bias ply tires, not radials, and are dead wrong for radial tires.