Beginner's Bucks-Down /6 Build...Suggestions Welcome

Well i see where you are and where you want to go. My 2cents is this, the 4 barrel will get more power and better mpg than the 2 barrel, so why waste the time to get all the super expensive super six junk to KNOW you want a 4 barrel... do it once.

Get an offy as you said, factory ports will have good velocity, port match to the head after porting and smooth edges in the intake. For the carb there were 450cfm holley's back in the day with vac or mechanical secondaries, i like mechanical.

On the cam yes the 70's cam is better, but it sucks... slants have a long stroke so it eats up duration, i would be about 210-220 @ .050 duration on a 110-108LSA, alot more pep and better mpg/power where you want it

on the head plan on .110 off the bat, my 68 motor with flat tops was .177 in the hole with 56cc chambers. With the mill i think i was at 46cc's and a 9:1 comp. That said if your pulling the motor down take it all off the block which will benefit over head milling. On the valves the 318 valves take work with the rocker sweep where as the enginebuilder valves (1.70/1.44) off ebay work with minimal work and will support you just fine. On the head have the valves and guides "roughed in" then port/ have it ported to match the factory gasket and have good bowl work done.

On ignition i like an MSD street fire with blaster II or electronic ign with a petronix 60KV E-coil (3ohm) with ballast bypass. Matt was close on the curve, 12-16initial @ 750rpm, 30* total mechanical by 2500. You may be able to get away with the VC-208 vacuum can at about 5 turns out.

if i missed anything throw it out there.

Oh on the rear, 8.25 with a 3.21 gear works well, about 3000rpm's @ 65mph with a 24.5" tire, so using a taller 26 or even 27" tire will bring those rpms down about 3-500rpm which is where that slant is going to want to be.